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How-to: Greddy-style Plenum Install


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  • Gender:Male
  • Location:waitara
  • Car(s):jap cabbie
  • Real Name:ryan

Since the engine is out of the car, it is much easier for me to put up some finished pictures from below, which is where most of the action is. Particularly the water hoses and connections for the oil/water heat exchanger. I couldn't seem to find the Greddy instructions in this thread (it's probably there, I may have simply missed it), but just in case this is the link to the pdf file. It's in Japanese, but the drawings are very worthwhile.

http://www.greddy.co...ts/pdf/1282.pdf

I noticed on some cars that the throtte cable angle was an issue. I purchased a Greddy throttle body adaptor from Nengun and it came with a bracket that goes between the standard throttle cable bracket and the mounting holes on the plenum. It straightens the throttle cable alignment. I will post up a picture of that as well.

I also noticed that some guys have used the water supply fittings for the turbo incorrectly. In order for water to flow through the piepwork and around the turbo core there needs to be a pressure differential between the source of the water and the return. That is usually accomplished by having the return plumbed in before the thermostat. The thermostat, even when it is fully open, forms a flow limiter and hence the water pump creates a partial vacuum on the radiator side of the thermostat. So having the water source and the return both plumbed into the rear of the block is not a good idea, as the pressure would be almost equal and very little water will flow. What I have done is to plumb the return into the fitting that comes out of the thermostat encasement on the block.

It also concerns me that most guys haven't re-used the air bleed, that standard is mounted at the highest point of the inlet plenum. This is also not a good idea as it removes the capability for the bleeding out of any air trapped in the cooling system. As everyone knows air in the cooling systems is not a good idea as it leads to hot spots at various places in the cylinder head which can cause cracking and/or warping due to temperature differential and also detonation due to localised heating. So I have plumbed the bleed vent and its 3 pipes back into the revised cooling system. One pipe goes to the throttle body cooling return, another to the turbo return (as mentioned above) and the third to the rear of the block. Hopefully the pictures will make it easier to understand.

As some may remember I purchased the inlet manifold/plenum to save some cost. So I could use top feed injectors (that I have plenty of) instead of side feeds (that I would have to buy). I thought I would be able to simply buy the alloy adaptors to fit the top feed injectors into the side feed holes in the inlet manifold. But apparently they are only sold (at $400 or so) with a Greddy top feed fuel rail, which I don't need as I have plenty of standard RB top feed fuel rails. So what I thought I would do is get our race team fabricator to machine up some adaptors out of alloy on the lathe. While he is doing it he may as well do a few more sets, so I thought I would ask if anyone else needs a set.
Cheers
Gary


incredibly intresting as i have hot spot issue's i think. sometimes my gauge spikes etc however its the wroung sender for my car *rb25 cefiro*.. also i get excesive knock on the powerfc at stupidly light throttle always at 3000rpm even with less then std timming. readings of 70...
would it be possibly for me just to hook up a hotspot reserviour for the cooling system and just by-pass the throttle body? as ive remooved the throttle preheats.... whats your thoughts?
p.s also could you get those pics up as i want to see how you did your cooling lines.

Edited by dead32, 29 January 2008 - 10:46 PM.

Posted 29 January 2008 - 10:42 PM

QUOTE(Roy @ 16 Jun 2007, 12:19 PM) View Post
People who put RB25s in R32 GTSts are the same sorts of people who would sleep with their girfriend's mates. If you put an RB26 in it, at least you have the excuse that she is a good sort :)


  • Car(s):r33 gtst
  • Real Name:steve
oh yeah it's a fun job even with the engine out of the car, hats of mate, only preblem is i don't have a washer bottle now as my piping kinda said move your ass.

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 12:35 AM


  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Car(s):R32 gts

As you may remember, the cylinder head was already extensively ported and larger exhaust valves fitted, after the over rev at the drags last year. So the manifold inlet runners had to be aligned with the head porting anyway. Only took a few minutes on each port with the die grinder. We also tidied up the water jacket porting a little, not much. All up less than $100 in time cost, so no big deal. Would have had to do it with any inlet manifold, same as we did with the exhaust manifold. It's standard engine preparation for us.

I haven't touched the plenum itself, the rough casting inside is good for airflow, separates it and stops laminar flow around the walls. We only worked up the ports enough to blend in the extra size required to match the head. Itís a smooth and straight transition and aimed at the back of the inlet valve, thatís all that matters.

As an asside, with the Tomei Poncams, valve springs, oversized exhaust valves and porting, it's the best RB25 head I have ever done. So it will be interesting to see how it works out with the VG30 housing on the GCG ball bearing hgh flow, response should be lightening fast. I know will have to spend some time getting the individual cylinder tuning right, but it should be worth it.
Cheers
Gary


Hi SK,

Wondering how you ended up getting on with the chinese plenum? I can make my own (As per photos in Fabrication forum) but this would be a crapload easier, especially since I can make test plates to pressure test/weld leaks my self.

Would one of these flow just as well as a greddy/so forth?

Posted 04 March 2008 - 07:36 PM


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  • Real Name:Jay
Pictures back up again :)

Edited by -Jay-, 10 March 2008 - 03:17 AM.

Posted 09 March 2008 - 01:02 PM


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  • Car(s):1990 r32 - rb25det
  • Real Name:Hamish
hey guys, i having trouble veiwing th picstures of the tute, i have recently bought one of these greddy copies, seens to be some burs on the inside, i'll just be filing them down n smoothing them out, apart from that the product looks good to me, smooth and should fit up nicely. Did anyone use a gasket or gasket goo when fitting one of these. i plan on doing the install soon. also could someone specify all the sizing of the nipples heater hose etc i need to buy. One more question.. with the ACC valve (thats the one on the left rocker cover, looking from front of the car right?) how did people block them off?

Posted 10 March 2008 - 04:37 PM

Previous rides:

- 1992 Holden VP Commodore 3.8 ltr v6
- r32 4 -door rb20det
- s13 rb20 - cage, coils etc..
- 1995 Nissan Skyline GTS - with rb25det conversion - the lean mean green machine

Current Ride

- 1990 r32 gts-t - with rb25det conversion - T3/T4 Turbo, Otomoto Dump Pipe, Nismo Stainless Front pipe, apexi 3" stainless cat-back, Nismo 740cc injectors, Mines front strut brace, Apexi dual pannel D1 forced pod filter, Apexi turbo timer, Apexi PFC, Greddy intake manifold, Greddy TB adaptor, Greddy type RS bov, Greddy oil catch can, HKS wiring harness, Greddy Profec B II EBC, Hybrid FMIC, Walbro intake 500hp pump

拓海 -

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Pics not working for me.

Posted 10 March 2008 - 04:58 PM

Hybrid Camry power.


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any one answer this question..i know it an old thread but i need some assurance.

Posted 12 March 2008 - 05:38 PM

Previous rides:

- 1992 Holden VP Commodore 3.8 ltr v6
- r32 4 -door rb20det
- s13 rb20 - cage, coils etc..
- 1995 Nissan Skyline GTS - with rb25det conversion - the lean mean green machine

Current Ride

- 1990 r32 gts-t - with rb25det conversion - T3/T4 Turbo, Otomoto Dump Pipe, Nismo Stainless Front pipe, apexi 3" stainless cat-back, Nismo 740cc injectors, Mines front strut brace, Apexi dual pannel D1 forced pod filter, Apexi turbo timer, Apexi PFC, Greddy intake manifold, Greddy TB adaptor, Greddy type RS bov, Greddy oil catch can, HKS wiring harness, Greddy Profec B II EBC, Hybrid FMIC, Walbro intake 500hp pump

拓海 -

  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Interests:Drifting, High Performance Cars and Time Attack
  • Car(s):R33 40th Ann. ed
  • Real Name:Dale

As some may remember I purchased the inlet manifold/plenum to save some cost. So I could use top feed injectors (that I have plenty of) instead of side feeds (that I would have to buy). I thought I would be able to simply buy the alloy adaptors to fit the top feed injectors into the side feed holes in the inlet manifold. But apparently they are only sold (at $400 or so) with a Greddy top feed fuel rail, which I don't need as I have plenty of standard RB top feed fuel rails. So what I thought I would do is get our race team fabricator to machine up some adaptors out of alloy on the lathe. While he is doing it he may as well do a few more sets, so I thought I would ask if anyone else needs a set.


Not sure I follow what you saying, but this might be of use to some people.

I recently contacted Trust Japan regarding the installtion of top feed injectors (GReddy/Denso) into the GReddy 11.0mm fuel rail (the 10.5 mm only allows fitment of the stanard injectors). And they replied by stating that you need to buy the following Genuine Nissan parts:

1) 6pcs of O-Ring -----Code 16618-78A00
2) 6pcs of Insulator (Upper Side)----Code 16635-78A00
3) 6pcs of Insulator (Bottom Side)---Code 16636-V5000

Posted 07 April 2008 - 10:47 PM


  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Interests:Drifting, High Performance Cars and Time Attack
  • Car(s):R33 40th Ann. ed
  • Real Name:Dale

hey guys, i having trouble veiwing th picstures of the tute, i have recently bought one of these greddy copies, seens to be some burs on the inside, i'll just be filing them down n smoothing them out, apart from that the product looks good to me, smooth and should fit up nicely. Did anyone use a gasket or gasket goo when fitting one of these. i plan on doing the install soon. also could someone specify all the sizing of the nipples heater hose etc i need to buy. One more question.. with the ACC valve (thats the one on the left rocker cover, looking from front of the car right?) how did people block them off?

I would think that gasket goo or even gasket paper would be a good idea.

An earlier post stated 6mm nipples.

To block off the ACC simple get a hose block off and hose clamp. Should be able to get this from a hardware or auto shop.

Posted 07 April 2008 - 10:51 PM


  • Craved
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One more question.. with the ACC valve (thats the one on the left rocker cover, looking from front of the car right?) how did people block them off?


PCV

that is retained normally- but you can either get teh hole welded up, or use a plug on it from clark rubber or something.

Posted 07 April 2008 - 11:49 PM

Craved Coatings
Custom Powdercoating and now exhaust Ceramic Coatings







  • Gender:Male
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Just a quick note to those who are undertaking this, Total Tools has a large range of threaded brass nipples.

And in case it wasn't mentioned before remember to drain your coolant before doing this, and if you have thought about adding an oil relocation kit now would be a good time.

Posted 04 May 2008 - 07:17 PM


  • Howie
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Great write up mate.. well done!

Posted 04 May 2008 - 08:26 PM


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Awesome write-up! Hats of Kym! i'm thinking of doing this to my 34 GT-T, anyone tried this? Seems that only 33's are doing the conversion

Posted 20 May 2008 - 09:20 PM


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  • Car(s):R33, EP91, Proton S16.
  • Real Name:Dave
Can someone post up some pics of the water feed into a highmount turbo setup?

Or explain how to run it from the Greddy plenum to the turbo?

Posted 30 May 2008 - 12:24 PM


  • Gender:Male
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Can someone post up some pics of the water feed into a highmount turbo setup?

Or explain how to run it from the Greddy plenum to the turbo?



The turbo water feed doesn't come from the manifold. The feed is off the back of the block with the heater connections and the returbn is off the back of the thermostat housing.


Cheers
Gary

Posted 30 May 2008 - 12:37 PM

I pop in occasionally & see what all my friends on SAU are up to.

  • Gender:Male
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  • Real Name:Dave

The turbo water feed doesn't come from the manifold. The feed is off the back of the block with the heater connections and the returbn is off the back of the thermostat housing.
Cheers
Gary

Im trying to work out how where the feed to the turbo comes from,aswell as where the water line from the turbo goes to.

Can someone post pics of there highmount setup with a greddy manifold?

Posted 30 May 2008 - 12:40 PM


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i still havn't began to fit mine up yet, i am working on my new project 32..however it will be done thanks shane for the info and chris for the install knowledge. hame

Posted 30 May 2008 - 12:43 PM

Previous rides:

- 1992 Holden VP Commodore 3.8 ltr v6
- r32 4 -door rb20det
- s13 rb20 - cage, coils etc..
- 1995 Nissan Skyline GTS - with rb25det conversion - the lean mean green machine

Current Ride

- 1990 r32 gts-t - with rb25det conversion - T3/T4 Turbo, Otomoto Dump Pipe, Nismo Stainless Front pipe, apexi 3" stainless cat-back, Nismo 740cc injectors, Mines front strut brace, Apexi dual pannel D1 forced pod filter, Apexi turbo timer, Apexi PFC, Greddy intake manifold, Greddy TB adaptor, Greddy type RS bov, Greddy oil catch can, HKS wiring harness, Greddy Profec B II EBC, Hybrid FMIC, Walbro intake 500hp pump

拓海 -

  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney
  • Interests:Motorsport
  • Car(s):R32GTST R33GTST Stagea
  • Real Name:Gary Cook

Im trying to work out how where the feed to the turbo comes from,aswell as where the water line from the turbo goes to.

Can someone post pics of there highmount setup with a greddy manifold?



Whether or not it's high mount is irrelevant, the plumbing is the same.


Cheers
Gary

Posted 30 May 2008 - 02:09 PM

I pop in occasionally & see what all my friends on SAU are up to.

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NOW, let's get to the cool stuff.
We're going to block this pipe off. Watch.
Posted Image



I also noticed that some guys have used the water supply fittings for the turbo incorrectly. In order for water to flow through the piepwork and around the turbo core there needs to be a pressure differential between the source of the water and the return. That is usually accomplished by having the return plumbed in before the thermostat. The thermostat, even when it is fully open, forms a flow limiter and hence the water pump creates a partial vacuum on the radiator side of the thermostat. So having the water source and the return both plumbed into the rear of the block is not a good idea, as the pressure would be almost equal and very little water will flow. What I have done is to plumb the return into the fitting that comes out of the thermostat encasement on the block.

Cheers
Gary


I'm havin some problems finding the nipple for turbo water line hook up, i've found a bolt on the side of the block is this the spot? I was thinking of hooking it up to the water line shown above is this a good or bad idea??

SK, do you have any pics of where you put yours

Edited by m0rt, 03 June 2008 - 12:56 PM.

Posted 03 June 2008 - 12:55 PM


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cancel that found the nipple, its the old coolent line for the t/b :thumbsup:

Posted 03 June 2008 - 02:01 PM





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