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How-to: Greddy-style Plenum Install


ix9

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cheers nick. looked at it, and it is fine. the car starts up for 1-2sec but then dies. and smells rank..the same smell when it is super lean.

also the fuel pressure is a constant 60psi and the pump is working. there is fuel in the fuel rail, but it is not going through the injectors into the engine.

this leads me to believe that the injectors, or injector electrics is the problem.

but cant find a solution...

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a noid light will tell you if you are getting injector power...

sk on my instalation i cut off the throttle pre heats, simply because they looked wierd just sittin there and there's not much need for it, surly the amount of heat transfer from the engine is enough heat.. how did your's go for fitmant? im still have coolant leak issue's out of one of the mountin bolt hole's...dont mind the coolant over the front of the engine,i was just to lazy to whipe it up before snappy taken >_<

heres mine installed.

dsc04143ie8.jpg

By dead32

Edited by dead32
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Does anyone have a pic of their rail/injectors bolted in place before installation?

I'm looking for a view of how the nozzles sit when viewed backwards from the inlet valves. Mine seem to be recessed quite a long way into the bore and don't know if it is right. The original manifold has them pretty well flush with the surface of that shrouded area they discharge into.

If there's confusion about what I'm asking I will get some pics posted up.

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Marvellous how sometimes you can answer your own questions. Did a dummy fit on each manifold. No problem - they are both recessed in much the same manner. The OE manifold probably moreso. :) I was just concerned that the fuel spray pattern might be affected by way they were recessed. So it's all good. :blink:

post-19642-1201413182_thumb.jpg

post-19642-1201413204_thumb.jpg

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Heres mine (genuine greddy, not the copy) should also answer SK's question regarding reusing the GTR/Hybrid intercooler style hole below the Washer Bottle. I re-used my RB25 injector rail also which I painted with oil/heat resistant wrinkle coat.

100_2124.jpg

100_2125.jpg

100_2126.jpg

Edited by MintR33
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looks the goods mate, i'd just be a lil worried about the amount of strain that ur putting on the accelerator cable.. seems o be at a very bad angle..unless its just the pics and im dreamding.

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I agree with you there, thats how it looks with the std one though! I also tried the R31 cable whih eveyone suggests, but its over twice the length of the std one and there is too much slack once fitted to the tb. The only perfect solution i'm aware of is to have one custom made which is exatly what I intend to do.

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Curious on how the water holes compare for each plenum vs stock, if you got pics of them dale Cheers

The Chinese copies (or mine at least) are finished poorly when it comes to matching. I made quite a few adjustments with die grinder to both the runners and water passages. The end result was worth it.

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I agree with you there, thats how it looks with the std one though! I also tried the R31 cable whih eveyone suggests, but its over twice the length of the std one and there is too much slack once fitted to the tb. The only perfect solution i'm aware of is to have one custom made which is exatly what I intend to do.

im not sure if it'll help but in my case a31 cefiro/rb25 the throttle cable was to short, i sourced an s13 srde cable * not sure same as det* and its perfect length, bout 3inch's longer, which is great and provides just enough slack but not to much... might be worth a shot, wrecker wouldnt charge jack.

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Since the engine is out of the car, it is much easier for me to put up some finished pictures from below, which is where most of the action is. Particularly the water hoses and connections for the oil/water heat exchanger. I couldn't seem to find the Greddy instructions in this thread (it's probably there, I may have simply missed it), but just in case this is the link to the pdf file. It's in Japanese, but the drawings are very worthwhile.

http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/1282.pdf

I noticed on some cars that the throtte cable angle was an issue. I purchased a Greddy throttle body adaptor from Nengun and it came with a bracket that goes between the standard throttle cable bracket and the mounting holes on the plenum. It straightens the throttle cable alignment. I will post up a picture of that as well.

I also noticed that some guys have used the water supply fittings for the turbo incorrectly. In order for water to flow through the piepwork and around the turbo core there needs to be a pressure differential between the source of the water and the return. That is usually accomplished by having the return plumbed in before the thermostat. The thermostat, even when it is fully open, forms a flow limiter and hence the water pump creates a partial vacuum on the radiator side of the thermostat. So having the water source and the return both plumbed into the rear of the block is not a good idea, as the pressure would be almost equal and very little water will flow. What I have done is to plumb the return into the fitting that comes out of the thermostat encasement on the block.

It also concerns me that most guys haven't re-used the air bleed, that standard is mounted at the highest point of the inlet plenum. This is also not a good idea as it removes the capability for the bleeding out of any air trapped in the cooling system. As everyone knows air in the cooling systems is not a good idea as it leads to hot spots at various places in the cylinder head which can cause cracking and/or warping due to temperature differential and also detonation due to localised heating. So I have plumbed the bleed vent and its 3 pipes back into the revised cooling system. One pipe goes to the throttle body cooling return, another to the turbo return (as mentioned above) and the third to the rear of the block. Hopefully the pictures will make it easier to understand.

As some may remember I purchased the inlet manifold/plenum to save some cost. So I could use top feed injectors (that I have plenty of) instead of side feeds (that I would have to buy). I thought I would be able to simply buy the alloy adaptors to fit the top feed injectors into the side feed holes in the inlet manifold. But apparently they are only sold (at $400 or so) with a Greddy top feed fuel rail, which I don't need as I have plenty of standard RB top feed fuel rails. So what I thought I would do is get our race team fabricator to machine up some adaptors out of alloy on the lathe. While he is doing it he may as well do a few more sets, so I thought I would ask if anyone else needs a set.

Cheers

Gary

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Gary, do you have any pics of your install ??? Maybe a schematic drawing or something ? I dont really understand how you got around and done the air bleeder and the water supply for the turbo.

Thanks!

Move to Tutorials for sure !

Edited by robots
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Gary, do you have any pics of your install ??? Maybe a schematic drawing or something ? I dont really understand how you got around and done the air bleeder and the water supply for the turbo.

Thanks!

Move to Tutorials for sure !

I haven't quite finished yet, a couple of simple brackets still to fabricate. When it's done I will post up the pictures. Except I seem to have run out of space in my gallery, but I'll sort that out with the Big C.

Cheers

Gary

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And Gary did you end up having to clean/tidy your plenum up alot? Im curious to see and hear on any work that you have done to the plenum itself as well. Great write up for sure

As you may remember, the cylinder head was already extensively ported and larger exhaust valves fitted, after the over rev at the drags last year. So the manifold inlet runners had to be aligned with the head porting anyway. Only took a few minutes on each port with the die grinder. We also tidied up the water jacket porting a little, not much. All up less than $100 in time cost, so no big deal. Would have had to do it with any inlet manifold, same as we did with the exhaust manifold. It's standard engine preparation for us.

I haven't touched the plenum itself, the rough casting inside is good for airflow, separates it and stops laminar flow around the walls. We only worked up the ports enough to blend in the extra size required to match the head. It’s a smooth and straight transition and aimed at the back of the inlet valve, that’s all that matters.

As an asside, with the Tomei Poncams, valve springs, oversized exhaust valves and porting, it's the best RB25 head I have ever done. So it will be interesting to see how it works out with the VG30 housing on the GCG ball bearing hgh flow, response should be lightening fast. I know will have to spend some time getting the individual cylinder tuning right, but it should be worth it.

Cheers

Gary

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