Duncan's Torque Splitter In An Awd Stagea?

[T0nyGTSt]

Is this possible? I dislike AWD but I wouldn't mind say a 25/75 F/R split.

[funkymonkey]

R32 ATTESA is slightly different to R33/Stagea ATTESA, but all a torque splitter controls is the signal that tells the ATTESA controller how much slip the back wheels are experiencing. Get the controller (or rather, glorified potentiometer with some circuitry) on the right signal and it should work fine.

[CruiseLiner]

R32 ATTESA is slightly different to R33/Stagea ATTESA, but all a torque splitter controls is the signal that tells the ATTESA controller how much slip the back wheels are experiencing. Get the controller (or rather, glorified potentiometer with some circuitry) on the right signal and it should work fine.

so do these GRID dancers, etc still damage the transfer case clutches or does it stop it from holding the residual pressure which doesnt damage the clutches? whats the best model to buy?

[T0nyGTSt]

I hear stageas have a button for 50/50 split - this may make torque splitters fairly redundant.

[CruiseLiner]

I hear stageas have a button for 50/50 split - this may make torque splitters fairly redundant.

the torque split controllers allow 100% drive to the rear wheels which is the main reason people want them, as u cant remove a fuse to do this like the r32 gtr's as the attessa keeps preload on the system and therefore burns out the clutches otherwise.

they also allow any amount of front to back variation i'd imagine, like 20/80, 40/60, 50/50, 60/40, 80/20, i'd imagine?. they are best for ripping burnouts before a drag run or something

[Duncan]

Tony, they have been tried in all ATTESA cars now including Stageas and they work exactly the same

They will not allow *less* front torque than standard (except the FWD off mode), they let your run more if your want to.

But it does not create a WRX style fixed split, it just increases the front Bias. ATTESA does not run more than a fraction of front torque until the g sensor tells it too

[bubba]

Old thread but the most appropriate place I could find..

I found mention of a connector under the dash that you disconnect to relieve pressure in the line so you can bleed the system effectively..

In regards to using a TSC on 33/34 gtr/gts4 and Stageas, with a 2WD switch.. could you run another switch on the above mentioned circuit to bleed the preload pressure on the transfer case?

After previous investigations, I believe that the preload is not in the transfer case itself but is the system maintaining a minimum pressure (enough to give the 5% split to the front). If this IS the case, then disabling the ATTESA system AND bleeding the pressure in the line to the transfer case, should give you 100% rear drive??

Is my thinking on the money? or am I way off the mark?

Probably way off the mark because if it was possble, someone would have come up with it already

[lachlanw]

are you wanting to do burn outs or just drive round the street doin a bit of powersliding ?

its only gonna damage the transfer case if you have in on a 2wd dyno goin hard for a couple of days

i unplugged the green wire under the dash with car on hoist idling in first and the front wheels did turn slowly and never caught up with the rears and could be stopped pretty safely by hand .

didnt blead any preload out .

at the end of the day the clutch(transfer) is designed to live with being slipped its whole life . the only time it is not slipping is under 50/50 lock .

if you want to go drifting at the track in normal mode the rears will slip and the clutch is forced together to try and make the front and read drive shafts have equal rpm

if you want to go drifting and you unplug the green wire(or pull a fuse) the rears will spin and the clutch will be left open not trying to link the shafts .

(transfer clutch . not talkin bout normal clutch)

if you want to 2wd dyno it or do burnout comps drop the shaft .

it you want to go for a hoon in rwd just unplug the green wire and pump the brake pedal 5 times

[bubba]

are you wanting to do burn outs or just drive round the street doin a bit of powersliding ?

its only gonna damage the transfer case if you have in on a 2wd dyno goin hard for a couple of days

i unplugged the green wire under the dash with car on hoist idling in first and the front wheels did turn slowly and never caught up with the rears and could be stopped pretty safely by hand .

didnt blead any preload out .

at the end of the day the clutch(transfer) is designed to live with being slipped its whole life . the only time it is not slipping is under 50/50 lock .

if you want to go drifting at the track in normal mode the rears will slip and the clutch is forced together to try and make the front and read drive shafts have equal rpm

if you want to go drifting and you unplug the green wire(or pull a fuse) the rears will spin and the clutch will be left open not trying to link the shafts .

(transfer clutch . not talkin bout normal clutch)

if you want to 2wd dyno it or do burnout comps drop the shaft .

it you want to go for a hoon in rwd just unplug the green wire and pump the brake pedal 5 times

No drifting and no burnout comps, that's what my 32 is for

A small skid here and there and the odd powerslide is all I'm looking for.. missing the lack of traction with the 32 off the road hehe

Will be trying the plug disconnect + pump brake pedal on my way home this arvo.

Oh and there is further discussion on this in a thread in the Drivetrain area

[lachlanw]

yeah i realised ive prolly re started a war .

if anyone wants a war i will not reply

yeah i like the green wire under the dash . its a single wire with a green block connector . in the location of the hood release lever bracket . might have a look first go . i can do it from the drivers seat now . turn car off . unplug wire . turn car on and pump brake pedal 5 times in 10 seconds . "4wd" light will start flashing =2wd and abs seperates front from rear . if you dont pump the brakes the light is on solid and this is for bleeding the attessa line (assuming it makes pump go fully so you could replace fluid by bleeding it out the nipple ??)

turn car off and plug wire back in when finished

i enjoy it when i wanna give it a launch or a bit of extra tail happy

[Oddy man]

I was actually going to post a question like this this week.

I have bought a TSC but havent installed it yet but here is my main query:

On the 2wd mode, will it indeed put 100% power to the rear wheels? (For dyno runs for example) and furthermore, will it bring pain to clutch packs with extended 2WD mode running?

And further, what should I be looking for to know that said clutch packs are being beaten? Sounds? drive quality?

kthx

[bubba]

It works!

I had to start the car though, then hit the brake pedal 5 times as when I just went to the ON position, 4WD enabled when the car started.

Definitely RWD.. but now I need an LSD Will try to get it up on the hoist this weekend and see if it gets rid of all the preload straight away

Edited July 13, 2010 by bubba

[lachlanw]

yeah couldnt remember if you had to start it or not . i always did .

lsd works really well in my car

driving on the road in 2wd isnt gonna worry it .

DO NOT DO THIS TO DYNO TUNE IT ON A 2WD DYNO

DROP THE FRONT SHAFT . IT IS 4 BOLTS AND TEN MINUTES

i dont know bout the preload . the front wheels will still turn on the hoist . well mine did . i didnt bother to undo the nipple to see if it made any difference

[bubba]

Hmm ok, I really doubt there's still going to be any preload.. the workshop manual clearly states there are two DIFFERENT methods of getting 2WD.. one being the above procedure, the other is dropping the propshaft.

The are plenty of warnings in the manual about how to tow and what not to do.. but absolutely no warnings in regards to the 2WD mode..

I will confirm, and if I get really adventurous I'll plumb a pressure gauge into the line and see what it says.

But next mission is get shift kit fitted tomorrow and then when my shims arrive from Nissan over east, I'll shim my old GTSt diff and chuck it in the wagoon!

[lachlanw]

even with no pressure in the line the clutch plates are still sliding against each other it you are dyno tuning it in 4th gear the rear shaft is doing 0 to 7500 rpm all day and the front shaft is doing none and the clutch has 15 plates sliding against each other . its gonna get hell hot . it might not f**k it but it will not be helpin git at all . for the effort of dropping the front shaft i dont consider it not worht doing

[bubba]

Put it on the hoist today and the front wheels didn't move at all when in 2WD mode.. that tells me that, at least in my case, there is no preload.

I also forgot to connect the plug back up when backing out of the workshop and it felt like it was 50/50 which makes sense, no light on the dash though.

[Fryday13]

Ive been under the dash of my 1995 R33 GTS4 and found a yellow wire? is this it? its out to the right hand side? could anyone post up a pic of the wire? just so i can get an idea of where it is? not planning on running it full time just a little bit of fun on the very rare occasions im allowed on the local police college's skid pan

[Fryday13]

Ha scratch that, found it. good fun to be had!