Jump to content
SAU Community

Spark Plugs


R33S2

Recommended Posts

I did a search and came back with 100+ results soooo...

I know there are three different types of plugs

Copper

Platinum

Iridium

I have heard of gaps from 0.8 to 1.1

Platinum and Iridium last longer but how much under normal driving?

I met a fellow member and he uses coppers every 10k.

Mine are Iridiums and they've lasted 100k.

I have learnt that the gap depends on the boost you are running, for stock the gap is 1.1mm if you are running 12psi or above 0.8 is recomended, as for plugs there is no perfomance gain to be gained from any but the life of the plug is greatly increased with platinum (80,000ks) and better still with iridium (100,000-160,000ks) compared to coppers which are recomended to change at 5,000ks although some say they last to 10,000 upto 40,000, if you can change them yourself go the coppers recomended below, I am using iridiums and they have been in there for 100,000k now and still good, I know because I keep pulling them out when something else stuffs up. Price wise they arent worth it really, I have been told that they are good in motors where changing the plugs are an absolute pain.

Generally speaking if a plug has a higher number than another it runs a colder heat range. eg. BCPR6ES ..... BCPR7ES colder plugs are good for preignition troubles.

Boost effects spark gap at 12 psi and above, the gap narrows down to 0.8.

FOR COPPER

They are good to 5k last at least 10k up to 40k

NGK for RB25det................. BKR6EYA or Platimum PFR5G-11

NGK for rb20/26det............. BCPR6ES or Platimum PFR6A-11

NGK for RB25NEOdet............ BCPR6ES or Platimum PFR6A-11

For PLATINUM

Good to 80k

NGK for RB25det................. PFR5G-11

NGK for rb20/26det............. PFR6A-11

NGK for RB25NEOdet............ PFR6A-11

NGKs Website

For IRIDIUM

Good to 150k

NKG for RB25det................ BKR5EIX-11

NKG for RB25neo............... BKR6EIX-11

NKG for RB20/26det........... BCPR6EIX-11

Denso for Rb25det............. IK20

Denso for Rb25det.. cold.... IK22

And go Here for a good SAU price on the Iridium plugs.

If you change your plugs and still have misfire isssues especially around the 3,000 - 5,000 rpm range it could be your coil packs are stuffed, its fairly common considering mine was 10 yrs old when mine started arcing out. Splitfire coilpacks are the best replacement and you can get a great deal from Dan (if he gives me a link)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

NGK BKR6E -8

I think thats if off the top of my head, but they come gappd at .8 which is what i use. they are around $2 each and i change them when i change the oil every 5k

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok...I just did the biggest lot of finding this week...

Normal plugs for a Skyline RB25det -

You want the BKR6EYA's.

If you want to go a colder heat range, and stay in Copper, and NGK, get the BKR7E's.

As for Denso, IK20's for Iridium (Same as NGK "6" heat range) or the IK22's for Iridium Denso plugs (same as NGk's "7" heat range)

Denso copper - K20R-U - (same as NGK's "6" heat range)

Denso copper - K22PR-U (same as NGK's "7" heat range)

Use this tool, its the best I have ever seen.

http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/xref

Good luck finding any of the denso's you are after though.

here's a few tips also -

1. If the plug has a "-11" on the end, its gapped to 1.1 mm. If it has nothing on the end like this, its 0.8mm - 0.9mm gap.

2. Some have longer necks than others so be careful.

3. If you're running high boost and are running into pre-ignition problems, try "7" heat range (colder plugs) or 22 heat range in denso.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Updated iridium section

I'm hoping that when I get a complete listing that I can this stickyed in the app section.

Posted by WRXHOON in another thread

platinum and iridum plugs are better cause the tip is only .6 mm and u get much better spark . the reson the nickel plugs tip is thicker is cause if they made it that thin it would only last a few k's platinum and especialy iridium are much harder so last a lot longer .

typical life , nickel 30k k's , platinum 100 , iridium 150.

probably less in a turbo gtr driving it hard less still but still 5 times longer than nickel .

And this by MegaGTS4 Here

Bosch recommends when installing spark plugs to use a torque wrench and the correct torque in ft.-lbs. As listed below:

10mm With Gasket - 8-11 FT.-LBS

12mm With Gasket - 12-15 FT.-LBS

14mm With Gasket - 19-22 FT.-LBS

14mm Tapered Seat - 12-15 FT.-LBS

18mm With Gasket - 20-23 FT.-LBS

18mm Tapered Seat - 14-17 FT.-LBS

If a torque wrench is not available, hand tighten the plug until it is seated in the cylinder head. Spark plugs with gaskets should be tightened an additional 90°. Spark plugs with tapered seats should be tightened an additional 15°.

This PDF file shows how to read the faces of used standard electrode plugs: here

MEGA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what happens if you put the plugs in too tight?

I didn't really know how tight to put them in so I tightened them up pretty tight. Don't want them working loose?

Worst case scenario would be that you could strip the thread which would mean removing the head and then using a helicoil I guess :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am runnin iriway7's in my rb20

i just put new ones in the other did about 30k...but there was nothin wrong with em...just thought i would see how the change went.. Dont know the gap...but they seem to be real good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

Can i use 0.8 gap for a fairly stockish engine?

or is it only suitable for mod engine?

what is the gap for stock Plug? and what is the purpose of shorten the gap?

please shead some lights thanks

cheers,

darrien

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to use a .8 plug then i would use a colder plug say a 7 in ngk, in the others i am not sure....but anything to hot and to close will cause detination.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to use a .8 plug then i would use a colder plug say a 7 in ngk, in the others i am not sure....but anything to hot and to close will cause detination.

That is a very bold statement to make. Do you have any evidence/theories etc to back that claim up?

Not having a go its just that a LOT of people run NGKs with a .8 gap and a heat range of six. It would be pretty fair to guess that its the most common plug configuration for an RB powered car that is running above standard boost. ( throw in coilpacks ageing and even standard boost cars run .8mm)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I've reseached so far the standard gap for copper is .8 and Iridium/Platinum is 1.1 some have shortened the gap to .8 in the I/P plugs due to high boost (12+psi) due to the spark being blown out by that much boost and the shorter gap fixed the problem, so it speaks for itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...