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Removing Hicas On R32 Gtr


oRiCLe

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Hi guys, i am looking at removing the HICAS off my r32 gtr, the lock bar is fine but what i was wondering is wether the R31 power steering pump would work as a replacement to the 4WS R32 one without any/many mods making it a straight conversion to 2WS? and allowing me to remove all the piping or would i need to still do modifications to the rack or other areas?

i have searched, but haven't really found a sound answer to removing all the piping, i have heard of removing the rear seaction from the power steering pump and plumbing it up, but i have also read that it could possibly overheat?

so any information would be really useful, thanks.

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When you botch up the 4ws pump they eventually wreck themselves I have proven this to myself many times. so a 2wd pump is a must.

can remove all pipe work associated with hicas system, dont forget the hicas pump in the engine bay its not needed.

lastly a r31 pump would be okay they are fairly big units is the only downside but I am guessing it would work, just check the pulley size is close to the r32 4ws one and it should be right!!!

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When you botch up the 4ws pump they eventually wreck themselves I have proven this to myself many times. so a 2wd pump is a must.

with that being the case am i right then in saying that for a 32 GTR a tomei hicas lock kit is an easier/neater option?

I was going to go the lock bar route and like the idea of the weight saving, but i don't particularly want to fark around with the power steering too much. The tomei kit is a just 2 shims and a little module to cure the warning light/heavy steering problem.

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hmm, true, but my engine is out at the moment and i diddnt really want to put the 4ws plumbing back in when i put it back together...

however if it proves a hugely easier option then i will...where would one source one of these tomei kits from out of interest?

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I don't know how many times I have posted this up, maybe we should make it a sticky..........

The R32 power steering pump has 2 stages.

The front stage works the front power steering rack, leave it alone when removing the HICAS. It will function exactly as is intended.

After you have removed all of the HICAS stuff, the rear stage is very usefull for pumping power steering fluid through the standard power steering cooler. All you do is use a short piece of hose (not high pressure) and 2 clamps to join the ouput of the pump up to the cooler. Takes about 2 minutes.

This is much simpler and more effective than rerouting the front hoses so the returning fluid (not under pressure) goes through the cooler.

I have done this on 10 or so R32's over the years, never ever had a problem. The pump works fine and the power steering fluid doesn't overheat. On the race cars we use auto tranmission coolers on the power steering fluid (instead of the standard loop of aluminium pipe) as they get quite hot in a racing environment. This is not necessary on a road car, the standard loop does the job.

Do a search if you want more details.

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
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thankyou SydneyKid, thats the information i was trying to find, i have read heaps of threads on how it wont work, etc, but this is the first one i've found on rebplumbing the pump without it overheating and the such...

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or you could do what i did and pull the back of the pump off (4 bolts) and slide out the little vane thing inside the pump. and put the cover back on. and block off the inlet on the resouvoiur and the outlet on the pump.

then remove ALL of the pipiing associated with the hicas.

steve

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SK-  Are all R32 4WS  pumps the same??

I have not come accross any different ones. There may be, but I have never seen one.

just so i understand you will then have two feeds going into the cooler? (ie the stock one, plus the feed from the rear pump?).

Nope, when you remove the HICAS the standard input to the cooler goes with it. That's why you have to reroute the input to the cooler.

The output from the cooler always goes back into the power steering fluid reservoir, so no change there.

or you could do what i did and pull the back of the pump off (4 bolts) and slide out the little vane thing inside the pump. and put the cover back on. and block off the inlet on the resouvoiur and the outlet on the pump.  Then remove ALL of the pipiing associated with the hicas.

But then you have no power steering cooler, which may be OK for some, but not for others.

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
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Nope, when you remove the HICAS the standard input to the cooler goes with it.  That's why you have to reroute the input to the cooler.

The output from the cooler always goes back into the power steering fluid reservoir, so no change there.

ahh, thanks Gary, that cleared things up for me greatly :P

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Gary with your system you must run a cooler is this correct?? On the 3 or so GTRs i intitially removed the hicas from I was simply blocking up the rear chamber, and the pumps would die I think due to over heating so I simply make sure I do a 2ws pump conversion at the same time, obviously its not needed if you run the pump the way you suggest!! Plus the 4ws pump is a mammout compared to the r33 pumps running a 2ws pumps looks better in the engine bay I think!!!

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so does the powersteering really get so hot you need a cooler??

why didnt the orignally have a cooler on the ps?

steve

R32GTR's and R32GTST's have a cooler on the power steering standard. It is a simple loop of aluminium pipe, but it works. On the race R32GTST I have used a standard Stagea auto transmission cooler as the power steering cooler. Works a little better.

:mellow: cheers :(

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