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25Neo injectors are 3/4 length with 14mm o-rings at both ends and the Denso plug. Like these. https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-r34-rb25det-neo-r35-gtr-350z-370z-720ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ You can probably fit any 14mm o-ring injector you like to that manifold, provided they are not too short or too long. And even if they are too short or too long, you can add spacers to the injectors or to the fuel rail mounting legs if you really needed to. Though I'd be hard pressed to believe that you would attempt it with anything other than brand new EV14s like the ones I linked. Having said the above, if the picture of the injector you posted has anything to do with the manifold, it looks like they are specifying full length injectors. So you'd just buy the full length part number instead of the 3/4 length part number. But I can't see any mention of that injector length on that manifold's eBay page, so perhaps you should ask the vendor. -
Hello SAU, I recently purchased an Alcon TA6 kit through a QLD company who supplies the dog bones/rotors etc. The kit has 356x36mm rotors - aluminium dog bones - TA6 calipers. I used the HEL brake lines I already have. Kit appears to be of high quality.....as much as visually i guess it can be. What I have noticed after install and pressure bleeding (and pedal bleeding) multiple times is that the calliper is flexing a decent amount when the pedal is pushed - enough that i can push the pedal to the floor as the calliper just keeps on flexing. Details: 1. OEM master cylinder @ 15/16" (BM44 - non ABS GTST) 2. OEM everything else on brake system - rear callipers etc. Just braided lines (front/rear) and the TA6 front kit 3. The TA6 calliper has ~2% smaller piston area than the OEM 4 pot sumitomo calliper - so no issue there.....i dont think. TA6 is 27/31.8/38.1 and OEM is 40.4/40.4 4. Have checked the calliper flex with car on (booster assistance) and off - same result just have to push harder with car off 5. Have unbolted calliper from the dog bone so its just resting on the disc and tested again - same thing - so flex of the dog bone doesnt seem to be an issue 6. Tried to measure pedal ratio as best i could - looks to be about 4.8:1 with some margin for error - ignoring the booster with 50kg of leg (beeeefy - but with booster probably fairly achievable) thats about 770psi of brake pressure which doesnt seem super high - but maybe it is?? So 75kg of leg = 1150psi. I guess my question is - is this normal? Alcon distributors over here have been helpful but ultimately have said its normal. I feel like modulation is bad as only the first 30-40% of pedal pressure/travel does anything. After that its a mix of flex....and maybe some extra clamp force. My old setup - Ksport 8 pots with 12 years of track work on them did not have this issue - pedal was solid. Only reason for change was a hub failure caused the disc to tear one of the callipers to bits. Thanks SAU - any thoughts/help would be appreciated. 20240303_124128 (1) (1).mp4 -
By GoHashiriya · Posted
TBH, I’ve hit a bit of a dead end with this. The Nistune’d ECU for sale is mapped for a big turbo, which is completely different to my stock motor. My friend (Nistune user) tells me I’ll need to get a new base map on it (no shit), which could - depending on the age of the Nistune board - mean sending it off to Nistune themselves to get it done. Price for this ECU is €355. Then I’ve still gotta buy a license. Sending my ECU for installation at Nistune costs about €400 (~AUD 700) including a license. So, plus shipping will be about another €200/AUD 350 (EMS), total around €600. I imagine downtime around a month. This seems to be the smartest option. Or have a crack at the soldering myself - I’m not that cack-handed. At this point I’m at Power FC money - does it work with an AT harness.. I can’t remember. Yes, PFC is not as good as the Nistune, but this option requires zero downtime. Then I’m thinking f**k it, this is a pain in the ass, I just wanna go rag it on the track; so SLD and then Nistune over winter… I figure I can do some reconstructive surgery on the harness with the some nice little crimps and heat shrink and it’ll look as good as Michael Jackson in his final form. -
Before worrying about the potential engine swap, you should confirm the car is eligible for import. If you are genuinely the owner overseas and can prove it, you might be able to bring it in under the Personal Import laws which are quite open, otherwise as it is >30 years old that might be a channel too. Each type of import has different rules which apply. You don't need any outside paperwork, it is all issued by Australia or NSW including import approvals, identity check, insurance etc etc -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
If the TCS light is controlled by the ECU just patch it with Nistune to turn it off. I personally hate wiring in stuff like the SLD because it requires cutting into the factory harness when all you really need to do is patch a byte or two in the ROM. Just to wire in my dash cam and some other future expansion I've bought a sealed bus bar so I don't have to run multiple fuse taps for accessories that want +12V, ignition signal, and ground. Clean wiring goes such a long way to preventing annoyances when debugging all this crap.
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