Bosch 984 Fuel Pump Installation

[wolverine]

you will need:

1x bosch 0 580 254 984 pump from reputable supplier

1x -6 (dash 6) male adapter to M12 x 1.5 (part number 74022)

1x -5 (dash5) straight hose end (part number74090)

50cm approx EFI fuel hose 7.5mm ID (part number 70002)

5cm approx EFI fuel hose 12mm ID

part numbers from Automotive Service Solutions/ Petroject

1x 70mm hose clamp

2x small hoseclamps (to fit 12mm fuel line)

1x ring clip electrical connector and nut to fit 5mm thread for negative terminal on pump

10mm socket

rubber mallet and timber (or correct tool)

phillips head screwdriver

flat screwdriver

pliers

rags

torch

hacksaw

stanley knife

1x bottle antiseptic/mercurachrome

bandages

1. open boot of car and remove partition to battery compartment.

2. undo the 4x 10mm bolts holding the fuel tank access cover with 10mm socket.

3. you should be able to see a black ring with a white plastic centre with 3x hoses and 2x electrical connectors.

4. tap the black plastic ring anticlockwise till it can be removed by hand (this will never happen till the mongrel thing is all the way off the thread.

5. disconnect the two electrical connectors by squeezing the sides and lifting.

6. disconnect the three hoses. i found that removing the front hose on the right side last is the best order as this is the one that's going to spit fuel all over you. you can remove the fuel pump fuse (in the adjacent fuse box )and turn the car over to solve this problem. keep some rags to mop any stray fuel.

7. lift the white plastic centre cap and you will need to disconnect the 2x electrical connectors under the cap. they won't fall into the tank very far so mostly you can forget them for the time being.

8. use the torch to look inside the tank, you will notice that the pump cradle is located on the front wall of the tank. lift the pump cradle up and tilt the bottom of the cradle to the right to clear the pump and sock from the bottom of the tank. the whole unit should come out of the tank, the cradle, the pump and the white plastic centre cap.

9. use the pliers to release the clips holding the fuel pump to the fuel line and remove the sock from the bottom of the pump. you will need to lever it of with a flat screwdriver as it is held on by a small plastic ring that will need trimming later (or go nuts with that stanley knife, it's your call).

10. you will notice that the pump won't fit directly onto the cradle without cutting or bending the existing metal fuel pipe, so i trimmed mine with a hacksaw and smoothed off any rough edges.

11. disconnect the electrical connectors taking note of the +ve and -ve terminal (the +ve had a rubber boot on mine). you will need to cut the -ve terminal and crimp the new electrical connector. (noting that the pump has a larger -ve terminal). you will require the small nut (5mm ID) to fit terminal. you can change the +ve connector but the old one will fit and the nut from the old connector will also fit the terminal. connect the wires to the 984 pump.

12.mount the pump on the cradle at the lowest point you can get it and tighten the large 70mm hose clamp to secure it. make sure that one electrical terminal is next to the cradle (i'll explain later).

13. trim the small plastic circle at the mouth of the sock leaving a small lip so you can fit the 12mm fuel hose over it and clamp it into place with 1 small clamp. trim the fuel hose so that the sock will sit as close to the opening of the hose end on the 984 pump as possible. clamp the hose to the pump. try to ensure the orientation of the sock is the same as it came off ie. back towards the front of the car.

14. fit the -6 (dash six) male adapter (to M12 x 1.50) and -5 (dash five) hose end to the top of the pump and tighten with 19mm spanner (from memory).

15. disconnect the fuel line to the white plastic centre cap and reconnect the new 7.5mm fuel line to the cap and fuel pump using existing clamps (i used approximately 50cm of fuel line).

16. next comes the hard part, trying to fit it back in. due to the larger dimensions of the pump it is a tight fit. the pump may catch inside the tank so i had to make sure the pump was pushed down to the lowest point on the cradle and the electrical terminals were lined up correctly. you need to slide the cradle and pump back into the tank and move the pump slightly to the right and then down. next, you need to lift it back on to its mounting point but this can be difficult as the pump's fit is tightest just at this point. if you can get the flat pins for the cradle lined up it should just slide into place. it took a bit of fiddling to get it lined up.

17. reconnect the electrical connectors under the white cap.

18. refit the white cap.

19. locate the black ring and carefully tighten, it is a mongrel sonofabitch coming off and mine was an a-grade turd going back on (it seems to want to cross thread the whole time so take some time and deep breaths till you can get it started, i used silicon spray on the thread to make life a bit easier).

20. reconnect electrical connectors and three fuel lines.

21. replace 4x bolts on access plate.

22. get antiseptic and/or mercurachrome and bandages and start healing all the cuts you are going to have on your hands from that exposed sheet metal that surrounds the access to the fuel tank.

23. turn key on and pray you hear the pump priming (don't forget any fuses you may have pulled).

24. cheer like crazy, you can drive yourself to the hospital to get the skin grafts on your hands.

Other thoughts:

i mounted the pump on the bottom of the cradle and the pump is now metal on metal. you could modify the rubber that sits under the factory pump but i was concerned about the space for fitting the pump so i left it out. a smaller pump won't face that problem and taking the time to modify and fit the rubber it should reduce the vibration and noise) i also considered slicing a section of fuel hose in half to fit between the pump and cradle to minimise vibration, i doubt it would come loose but i left it out just in case.

there is small priming noise on start up which is not loud on my car so i am perfectly happy with the result. I won't bother going back in there to try to quieten it.

there is a sleeve over the pump like clear contact paper/plastic, i peeled mine off.

if you are using another bosch pump then there may be some variations. particularly the 044 doesn't have a check valve (as i understand it) so you may require some extra items.

the caveats:

you should take all due care as the battery is right next to you so seeking professional advice to ensure your safety is advisable. this may include disconnecting the battery, having a fire extinguisher on hand and even paying a qualified technician to do it.

this is a guide on how i installed my pump and i take no responsibility for any errors or omissions.

lastly, i would like to thank the following people, skylinegeoff for pointing to location of the pump, predator for his photo of his cradle and pump, big thanks to strutto for staying up late one night on messenger and helping me with some parts. Repco for supplying the pump at such a good price (thanks big D), and a young guy at Petroject parramatta for his patience. and to the ultimate DIY dude mike for standing there and supervising, did nothing but....thanks.

Edited April 17, 2006 by wolverine

[strutto]

Nice write up... Perfect description of a Bosch fuel pump install in a 33...

[wolverine]

decided to go back in and rubber mount the pump. there has been a slight hum since installation. the more i heard it the more it shitted me.

easier getting in second time around.

i used some small diameter fuel line and installed it between the cradle and the pump and between the clamp and the pump. stuffed it all back in, which was an even tighter fit with the rubber.

definitely quieter for the effort.

[riceline]

I used your guide to do a GTR pump replacement today.

I agree with you FULLY that geting that cradle to line back up is the BIGGEST pain in the ass!

Other than that It really is a mind over matter difficulty rating!

Thanks for the guide was VERY helpfull eaven though it was a GTR pump and not a Bosch.

[wolverine]

thanks for the feedback riceline.

[Suspense]

I will be installing my Bosch 040 Fuel pump in my R33 tomorrow. And after readign this post Guide I was wondering if all the parts he has listed willl be require?

Will i need extra fuel hose?

Will i need pipe adaptors?

Will i need ring terminals to suit the pump, or will stock terminals fit on?

And anything else you can please tell me would be great.

Thanx in Advance

[wolverine]

as i understand it,

you shouldn't need the adapters to turn the female fitting into a hose end that i needed on the 984, as i think the 040 has a hose end on the top end but you should need everything else listed.

[33SOM]

Any difference with a 044??

Thanks.

[wolverine]

the 044 requires a check valve. when you buy the pump you should be able to buy the appropriate check valve from petroject (or auto shop). i am not 100% sure whether other parts than those described are also required. the pump is a little longer than the 984 afaik.

if someone goes to the trouble of detailing parts needed then i can amend the original post to save everyone chasing their tail.

[33SOM]

ok il give it a try.

Thanks

[justin911]

where exactly is the fuel tank / fuel pump... ive been looking everywhere in that area on the other side of the battery etc ??

ok il give it a try.

Thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[wolverine]

if you have an R33 the fuel tank is under the metal plate with 4 screws on the right hand side of the battery.

[justin911]

oh yeah cool thanks for that

how do you get that big black thing off ? just keep hitting it anti clockwise or something ? is there some trick.. i dont want to kill it

if you have an R33 the fuel tank is under the metal plate with 4 screws on the right hand side of the battery.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Edited August 17, 2005 by justin911

[wolverine]

tap it anticlockwise with the timber and the mallet as described.

[justin911]

i managed to get the black ring thing off. I've given up now though

I've got no chance in hell of getting the 3 pipes off the white thing.

Think I'll just pay someone to do it

thanks heaps for your help though

[predator]

get some decent pliers onto where it fits to the piping. Gently twist back and forward and pull off .. this will separate the rubber from the piping, which can tend to 'stick' to the pipe after sitting there for many years.

[justin911]

yeah ill try give it another go, im just worried i'll rip the rubber pipes.

thanks

get some decent pliers onto where it fits to the piping. Gently twist back and forward and pull off .. this will separate the rubber from the piping, which can tend to 'stick' to the pipe after sitting there for many years.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[performance-wise]

i managed to get the black ring thing off. I've given up now though

I've got no chance in hell of getting the 3 pipes off the white thing.

Think I'll just pay someone to do it

thanks heaps for your help though

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Did you try removing the hoses first? This is essential.

Try a flat head screwy (medium sized) and wedge it between the end of the hose and the white plastic and slowly pry it off while gently pulling & twisting the hose.

[justin911]

cool thanks

so before i hit the black ring thing with the mallet to get it off, I take the 3 rubber pipes off first ? any other cool hints / tips ?

thanks again guys

[justin911]

ok guys

after this step i shouldnt need help anymore..

just curious though... i got the 3 rubber pipes off and i can now access the fuel tank.

do i just stick my hand in there or get someone with an incredibly long arm and just yank out the pump/cradle ? its not bolted onto anything ?

thats heaps for your help guys, hopefully once i get the pump out it shoul be all smooth sailing

thanks again

Edited August 23, 2005 by justin911