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So just get it rebuilt and replace it with a genuine boot? Is it possible that I would have to replace the CV joint as well?
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Okay I must of got my letters wrong instead of hp I’d like to make 450-600kw i know it’s quite easy to make it on an RB I already got the turbo for free so it’s brand new the aeroflow 62 .84 T51r mod already done T4 flange can I change it to a t3 but please tell me how
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rebuilding is a straightforward option too, the only thing to keep in mind is non-genuine boots are likely to be much worse quality rubber and need replacing about 10x as often.
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By GoHashiriya · Posted
Yeah, great guy that Matt, giving very comprehensive emails with quick responses. He told me it’ll be plug and play for the ECU, which may potentially get me out on track at 600kph by the end of the month or June. Anyone wanna buy a HKS SLD.. -
I was looking into the uniclutch, as something that doesn't rattle, dampens and holds horsepower is the dream. They didn't seem super confident on the power holding though. Could just be covering themselves, which is understandable. "The 10in sport Uniclutch can handle a peak of 1100Nm at the flywheel, not sure how that translates to HP. As for the power output of your engine, I would suggest holding for the UniClutch Track, I feel the 1000HP will have a higher torque rating then what the Sport will be able to handle, We have fitted prototype track clutches to a number of street/track test vehicles now and have found pedal effort to be reasonable. It is very similar to OE pedal feel. and would fall within the torque capacity of the Uniclutch Track." The track clutch loses the dampening and rattles(?) I believe though.... don't quote me
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