Jump to content
SAU Community

DIY Changing Clutch


leech_
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i was wondering if anyone has a basic DIY for changing the clutch and if they dont just some basic things to look out for. I have a feeling that my thrust bearing may need replacing but obviously to get to that i need to get to the clutch. So yea we did it on my sr20 before but that seemed alot easier than what this will be. anyways if you could help out i would appreciate it

oh its a rb25det from a s2 r33

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's really easy providing you've got a hoist (for g/box) and IS time consuming ..

Slightly more awkward than the SR as theres a little less room to work around the bell housing/bolts but .

Disconnect your battery

Start with the usual and remove the gearstick (circlip) then unbolt the prop shaft and have a catch can handy for all the box oil that will drain out of the rear, you might want to re-use this oil also.

Loosen the frontpipe off the exhaust system also which provides a little bit of leaverage to allow the engine to rock.

At this point I'd advise using your hoist under the gearbox to support the weight while you remove the bolts around the gearbox mount. Then slowly, lower the hoist which will allow easy access in undo-ing all the sensor wiring off the gearbox. Use a small flathead screwdriver for this as they can be very hard and brittle after many years in the land of nippon. :rolleyes:

At this point the hoist should be supporting the entirety of the weight apart from the bell housing. Undo all the bolts off the bell housing and push the starter motor aside.

There is limited room to actually wiggle the box out like I mentioned before so be careful with this and do not force it. You'll find that it'll be necessary to slightly roll the box around a few degrees to clear the starter motor housing of the firewall (on the bell housing as you probably know).

At this point the box should literally drop out slowly as you lower the hoist. Then simply roll the hoist back to remove the box completely and presto, it's done.

If you want any specifics let me know :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey jengi thanks heaps for the advise that sounds like the majority of what i needed to know :rolleyes:

yea taking the sr20 apart was a bit of a bitch the way we did it eg no hoist lol we wont be making that mistake again.

and once again cheers Jengi really appreciate the help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have done a handful of skyline clutches on the ground. I just advise anyone of concidering doing their clutch without a hoist. The box is quite heavy and large on a skyline and it really just isnt worth the pain and well danger of doing it under the car, from now on i will only do them on a hoist with a trans stand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do them on the ground all the time , this is what i do .

Jack the car as high as possible , put stands on all corners then do all the unbolting as jengi posted , i let the gear oil out of the box first though . When all the bolts are undone , i leave a couple on the bellhousing , i use a trolley jack , on the gtr or any 4wd i tie the the box to the jack ( use chain ) ,undo the last 2 bolts on the bellhousing , then lower the box to the ground . If i have clearence problem ( getting it out from under the car ) , i either get another jack and jack the car heigher or i drop the box on a little creaper like trolley and bring out like that .

Of course if you have a hoist and a transmission jack its heaps easier .

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I'm thinking of changing my clutch in the next few weeks. Few quick questions...

Do you need a special tool to align the clutch?

How many litres of fluid does the transmission need?

How long would you expect it to take?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm thinking of changing my clutch in the next few weeks. Few quick questions...

Do you need a special tool to align the clutch?  

How many litres of fluid does the transmission need?

How long would you expect it to take?

You do need something , a broken shaft will do the job .

Trany takes about 3.8 lts .

Time depends on your skills and tools you have .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers.

Also, I'm thinking of just changing the clutch plate. Is this worth the effort or should I replace it with a whole new kit? I dont really want the pedal to feel heavier than stock...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

by clutch plate do you mean the thrust bearing ??? if so i would do it thats the only reason i was going to drop the box out to replace that but i have since realised it is not worth the effort.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Done this before.... 1st time was piss when we didn't change the clutch. As soon as you move the clutch plates and have to realign them and its multi plates it gets tricky.....esp when ur doing it on the ground. We had trouble getting the spline to go through the plates as we could'nt get the angle right.... got the old man to come up and help and went through 1st go :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers.

Also, I'm thinking of just changing the clutch plate. Is this worth the effort or should I replace it with a whole new kit? I dont really want the pedal to feel heavier than stock...

Why you want to change the "just the clutch plate " , is the clutch slipping ? if yes dont bother do a complete job , if no dont bother taking it out until it starts slipping .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

by clutch plate do you mean the thrust bearing ??? if so i would do it thats the only reason i was going to drop the box out to replace that but i have since realised it is not worth the effort.

Thrust bearing is just that a bearing , clutch plate is the round thing with the friction material on it , so no 2 different things .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why you want to change the "just the clutch plate " , is the clutch slipping ? if yes dont bother do a complete job  , if no dont bother taking it out until it starts slipping .

Obviously its slipping. Even in 5th at 100km/h, before it makes full boost, it slips.

After doing some reading it seems that changing just the clutch plate provides more 'bite' while retaining the factory feel of the pedal (and its cheaper). Is this true?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Obviously its slipping. Even in 5th at 100km/h, before it makes full boost, it slips.  

After doing some reading it seems that changing just the clutch plate provides more 'bite' while retaining the factory feel of the pedal (and its cheaper). Is this true?

If it slips , bite the bulet take the box off and replace the whole thing .

You dont have to use a different pressure plate , you can use a Nissan one if you like ( i wouldnt though ) .

By just changing the clutch plate now , you are going to have to pull the box down again to replce the pressure plate , clutch plate and thrust bearing very soon.

The reason its slipping worn clutch plate and pressure plate or to much power if not stock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

ok sounds hard but eazy at the same time to change the clutch.

atm i only have the money to get a decent clutch and dont have money to pay someone to install a clutch.

when dropping out the gear box does it slide off the drive shaft or dose it stay connected and it just dropps down to give you access to the clutch??

if someone has pics of what to undo would be help full or a site that gives more details

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...