Jump to content
SAU Community

Thermal shield for FMIC pipes


GTRgeoff
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have been on the hunt for a cheaper alternative for some thermal shield and decided to try this stuff. Being the datalogger type I have been measuring the outlet temps from my Hybrid Monster FMIC and was very happy, until I put my hand on the crossover pipe and feel the temp after a hard run. All that FMIC cooling goodness wasted.

This Flashtac product is available at Bunnings and maybe other hardware stores and cost about $20 for 10m. It is a layer of aluminium strip, thicker than foil and backed with a tarry adhesive substance. It did all of the piping required.

I'm also a tight bastard so I preferred to weld up my own FMIC piping from 2.5" mild steel instead of ally or stainless, at least until I have my setup complete to my satisfaction. With my fetish for a twin turbo RB26 setup not yet fed, the FMIC piping is still temporary.

The downside of mild is the rust, so unsightly and unprofessional so here comes the fix. The flashtac is shiny (bling bling) for the looks department, as well as rejecting radiated heat.

I removed the front bar and set to work with a wire brush to remove some of the ugly rust. Then I gave it a wipe down and out came the flashtac.

I pulled off the crossover pipe to wrap it as this one gets the most radiated heat so was most important. Just a slight overlap as you go along is ideal and work it flat along the way to get the look. To obtain a much smoother look rub it in with a glass bottle (beer :D).

Then the inlet and outlet get done on the FMIC as they are visible and that is way uncool to have rust on. I know, ponies before chromies but you gotta maintain some respect.

Then back on with the front bar and happy days. No more rust and a really cool race cred finish to your FMIC piping.

Now the crossover pipe just gets a little warm instead of hot to touch and as all Engineers know, thermal energy transfer is a logarithmic function dependent on the temperature differential so this is not a wasted exercise as the pipe is much cooler even if still *warm*. I would normally measure temps and stuff but the fingers are sensitive enough to tell the difference here.

An afternote is that the tar adhesive does get tacky in the warm engine bay, but I am yet to see any actually melt out from its location. I bags NOT removing it from the pipe ever as it will be a solid gold Biatch.

Enjoy in moderation. I take no responsibility for anyone silly enough to put this on their bling bling expensive polished piping as there will be a massive effort to clean off.

DO NOT PUT THIS ON EXHAUST PIPE, please!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks Paul. Really noticing the heat difference after driving. The cold off boost air keeps it pretty cold to the touch. Who am I kidding. Even on boost the FMIC is so big it maintains to within 1 degree of ambient temp. Warms a little after sitting though.

As an update. The tar backing is not leaking out at all after hours of driving (Winton and return) or a 20min hard session through twisties. I am really impressed and the guys who see it immediately think race car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

That Flashtac stuff is good. It survives for years outside on corrugated roofing iron which can be in continuous direct tropical summer sun, and is supposed to be waterproof in winter. Should work well either under the font guard or in the engine compartment.

Another way is sponge neoprene sheet, like the stuff wet suits are made from. Available from Clark Rubber in various thicknesses, glued directly on to the intercooler pipework with "Kwik Grip" contact adhesive. It stretches a lot, so is easy to wrap neatly around sharp mandrel bends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The goal was always cheap and effective. I've achieved both.

I'd seen the neoprene done before so wanted to come up with something novel, but neoprene is a great idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a tar based product on the back of the foil so you would lots of smoke, then a fire so as posted before DO NOT PUT THIS ON EXHAUST PIPE, please!!

It is fine for inlet and protecting against radiated heat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

No, just going by feel. the tubing was too hot to touch before and only gets warm now. I do measure temps after the intercooler and saw a max of 36 deg in the airflow after a recent session at PI, while I have seen over 55 deg before with the stock cooler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




×
×
  • Create New...