Jump to content
SAU Community

Sard 700cc Injector Settings


Recommended Posts

hey Guys,

now that my inj duty cycle is strapped i need to put the bigger injectors in.

i have them here, SARD 700CC (light Blue tops) but don't know where to get the Injector Latency figure for them so i can work out the adjustment factor.

444/700 = 0.634 so 63.4

0.772 - (new Latency unknown) = Correction

any one got a figure or a link?

surely someone is running SARD 700cc injectors with a Power FC, i just need to know what perameters to put into the FC so i can run them?

i have a wide band O2 sensor in car to get the A/F's right, but could really use a link or some information on changing ignition & fuel maps.

no Dyno in Papua New Guinea & no one with aftermarket ECU tuning experience....................just me!

would really apreciate any help :angry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

whenever i need lag time settings i just google them :)

hey Beer Baron, i'm all googled out :) , but i have been searching using SARD & LATENCY in every which way i can think of. are you saying try SARD INJ LAG Times?

i'll try that i guess :O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey Beer Barron, you da man, "LAG" is what i should have been using. easy when you know how eh?

put the injectors in last night, running good even with std maps.

new injectors reading 68% at 1.2 bar under load where the stockers maxed out 100% at 5,500 in 2nd at same boost.

now all i need is schooling on how to change Ignition & Fuel Maps to smooth things out. i have a wide band O2 mounted full time, but want to knock the timing back somewhat to keep knock down as i'm forced to run on 91

know of any Video's explaining the proceedure & links? i did try Google, but failed me this time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha, glad i could help mate! I knew they were out there.

tuning is a whole other ball game though. basically you will need to spend a lot of time around the area that it's building boost really fast, and around peak torque. This area will have a propensity to be very sensitive to ignition advance. too much and it will ping/knock, not enough and it will be a bit sluggish and not build boost as fast as you'd like. this area (transition to boost) is crucial to getting a nice drivable car. basically you want to be getting the AFR right, then work on the timing. raise it until it knocks, then back off a few degrees at those load points that knocking occurs at.

and ABOVE ALL: BE CONSERVATIVE!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.
    • I replaced the entire IACV assembly with new unit from Nissan, idle acts the exact same, starts and runs with idle rock solid at 900, as soon as I plug in the solenoid from the new IACV the idle races up to 1400, even with idle adjustment on side back of intake manifold maxed out for lowest idle still way too high around 1200.  Again if I unplug the IACV, turn idle screw to about half and it runs fine at around 900. thinking about just leaving it unplugged, do not ever plan to drive it when its cold, and always stored in climate control garage, just sucks to spend 500 dollars and have no change, could have left the original at this point. any other thoughts as to what it could be? maybe not even worth pursuing? that is if cold start idle aid was the only reason for Nissan to have this part anyway. tried AC and other loads and it never seemed to push idle below stall.
    • I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.
    • Hi all, so I bought a very low kms 2019 Q60s in Nov 2022 and have been driving it stock for 17 months. The power from the VR30DETT has been a little scary as these cars did not come with a LSD. Although the ECU does well with compensating the lack of LSD by using automatic braking on different wheels when there is lost of traction etc, it does not really give me much confidence to push the car harder. Further to that, the car feels quite boaty especially around sharper corners or roundabouts - it would seem like the wheels are lifting on one side. These engines are also very prone to heat soak as the heat exchanger is tiny. I felt this during the heat wave in WA over summer even in normal driving. Gear shifting in the Q60 is also something that I hated - it's quite harsh at low speeds especially in traffic.  I recently purchased a set of f&r sway bars, rear diff brace and a heat exchanger from Z1 in US. Here are my thoughts 1) Rear diff brace - no more wheel hop when accelerating quickly. wheel spin still present but manageable comparing to before. Gear shifts are now smoother, you can still tell its shifting etc but you dont feel the harshness. I would highly recommend this mod, and it should still be on sale at Z1 at the moment. 2) Sway bar - there are 2 settings for this F - 114%/165% increase in stiffness over stock and R - 138%/214% increase in stiffness over stock. Currently I am on the stiffer settings. The car feels very planted. Due to the weather over here I have not been able to test if i need to reduce the stiffness. So far it's much more comfortable to drive over stock as you dont feel like your car is lifting up and in fast turns you can control the car a lot better while turning left and right in quick succession.  3) HX - the Z1 HX has a much higher capacity and surface area (up to 200% or something). Again with the cooler weather it's a little hard to tell. I went with the Z1 HX due to the price, size and colour (black). You can't see the HX through the front bumper. There is a cheaper brand but it was smaller and the rest were more expensive which i didnt think was worth the extra since I won't track this car much at all. All 3 mods were easy to install, all plug and play. Note of caution, the front bar needed to come off for the HX to be installed.  
×
×
  • Create New...