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Brake Pads Users Ratings Guide


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  • 1 month later...

ive just swapped my rotors and pads yesterday... with RDA slotted rotors and greenstuff pads from the GB.

They work really good and have a very good bite.

I have notice a very soft squeal from the pads tho when braking at low speeds and it only occurs sometimes... I am running the metal shims in the front and rear calipers. EBC did provide some plastic type shims, but i choose to use the metal ones i already had... Could this be the problem? Or is it common to hear a little bit noise during the bedding in period?

Ive done the 8-9 60kms-10kms runs when i first put them in and now i am taking it easy for the next 100ks per instructions....

Any thoughts?

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  • 2 weeks later...
threw a set of lucas pads on my stock r33 gtst before the last sandown event.

much better than the bendix heavies that were on there before. the first session they were pretty shiz, but in the 12 min sessions after that they held up

the whole way through. i did 5 12 min runs on the day. with rbf600 fluid most of the braking performance came very low on the pedal, not sure if that is

air in the line. but they held up well. the pads have now done a DECA, sandown and HH and have worn around 1/4rd down on the fronts and maybe half

that on the rear.

they were cheap at ~70$ a set.

just an update.

was getting 3 track days out of the trw on the front.

went looking for something that would hold up better and give better feel wen warm.

got a set of qfm.

pedal is much better, come on much earlier.

still only got 3 track day out of em on the front. but with much greater confidence in the pedal.

put some ducting in and larger 324mm rotors. have to see how they go.

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still only got 3 track day out of em on the front.

Just to put that in perspective, I used to instruct at the V8 Race Experience at QLD Raceway, and we'd go through a set of Ferodo Formula pads in half a day, and those cars aren't being driven particularly hard...

A half day course we'd be right, but a full day we'd have to change pads at the lunchtime break.

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  • 1 month later...
happy so far with my hpx pads from greg. rears squeeled a bit the first drive, but quiet by the second outing.

whats peoples experience with winton and laps before fade occurs?

What car/brakes/fluid? All of these will be a factor. Most often it is fluid that brings on fade. Personally I've never had fade at winton with a 32 gtst with R34 310mm fronts. Good pads and fluid in most skylines will be fine.

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What car/brakes/fluid? All of these will be a factor. Most often it is fluid that brings on fade. Personally I've never had fade at winton with a 32 gtst with R34 310mm fronts. Good pads and fluid in most skylines will be fine.

Sounds like i wont have problem then. i doubt ill be getting near the mids 30's first time out like you are running. i was hoping around a 1:45?

gtr brakes front and rear in a torana, so its slightly lighter than a skyline, about 1200kgs. std dot 4 fluid.

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Anyone tried the Endless MX72 pads? are they any good?? someone is selling for $350 for a set of front.

From what the seller, its replacement of CC-X, is CC-X good? I have no idea about these pads >.<

Please help!

CC-X are great. They are hard on rotors. It's still a lot of money for pads.

I just got the QFM A1RM's and they went well at sandown. Greg was very helpful and delivery was only 2 days.

Very cheap for $130. I don't think I'll be spending big on pads again after how they performed at Sandown.

I will monitor the wear but I get to about 220kmh before jumping on the brakes and they felt similar to my DS2500's.

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  • 1 month later...

RDA Blacks, purchased to go on the Pulsar as an OEM replacment pad. Car only sees daily and shopping duties so the pads were not super important to be the best in terms of performance.

I am not overally impressed, less stopping power than the Hitachi OEM pads and the modulation isn't that great. I can live with them and I thought I was being picky until my partner drove the car for the first time today with the new pads and she isn't happy with them at all.

Long story short they have to go and I will be using TRW Lucas pads or OEM pads instead.

PS does anyone know exactly what the OEM brake fluid used on an N16 is. I don't mean dot 3 or 4 but which particular brand or is it a custom nissan fluid.

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PS does anyone know exactly what the OEM brake fluid used on an N16 is. I don't mean dot 3 or 4 but which particular brand or is it a custom nissan fluid.

Makes absolutely no difference because Dot 3 and 4 aren't performance standards, they're formulation standards. 99.9% of Dot 4 fluid comes out of the same factory regardless of brand.

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using bendix ultimates at the moment for street use only.

pretty good at pulling up, a little bit of a squeel 1st thing of a morning with surface rust, and a little bit of a squeel at the end of a long drive (up highway for instance) but in between not much noise at all.

about a 7-8 /10

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Makes absolutely no difference because Dot 3 and 4 aren't performance standards, they're formulation standards. 99.9% of Dot 4 fluid comes out of the same factory regardless of brand.

Yes I know what dot 3 and 4 is hence my question. There are huge differences between brake fluids even if they are the same ie dot 4 rating.

I have found the nissan fluid to be I think thinner providing a noticeably lighter pedal than castrol dot 4 and only slightly lighter pedal (better) than castrol super response dot 4.

I would like to find out what the original nissan fluid is exactly check the temperature specs to see if they are suitable for my track car as I would preffer to use it from a pedal feel perspective.

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I would like to find out what the original nissan fluid is exactly check the temperature specs to see if they are suitable for my track car as I would preffer to use it from a pedal feel perspective.

No chance. Standard Dot 4 or OEM fluid is good for about 250 degrees dry. To do any sort of track work you need a fluid over the 300 degree mark, like the 600 fluids that are 312 degrees dry.

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No chance. Standard Dot 4 or OEM fluid is good for about 250 degrees dry. To do any sort of track work you need a fluid over the 300 degree mark, like the 600 fluids that are 312 degrees dry.

I have been running 286 deg fluid along with quite few other regular track goers with the same car and brake setup. I have been using 700 deg plus pads and I regularly overheat the pads to point of fade without issue any fluid issues to date. The same fluid has been in the same car with DS3000's which I will be buying next and the fluid has never show any signs of boiling.

Keep in mind my track car is rated to use DOT 3 fluid only and Castrol Super Response DOT 4 is the highest temp DOT 3 compatable fluid that we are aware of.

I would use higher temp fluid that is DOT 3 compatable in my track car if there was some available, are you aware of any?

Edited by frozenpod
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TRW GP600 Racing Brake Fluid, $65 for a 1L bottle, and good for 312 degrees dry. Conforms to both Dot 4 and Dot 3 FMVSS No.116.

My cars brake system I needs about 3lt per flush, I typically buy a 4lt container of CSR Dot 4 at about $40 amd flush the brakes the day before most track days.

How do the A1RM pads compare to the TRW Lucas pads in terms of friction, I see they are rated to 0 to 780 deg C which is probably the best temperature range pad I have seen to date but the friction is a little light on at only 0.4-0.48.

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My cars brake system I needs about 3lt per flush, I typically buy a 4lt container of CSR Dot 4 at about $40 amd flush the brakes the day before most track days.

If you're changing standard Dot 4 before every track day, then that may be enough. Certainly going to a high temp fluid is an advantage, but where fluid looses it's edge, is moisture absorption. 6 month old GP600 may only be as good as brand new Dot 4. It doing that works for you, stick to it.

How do the A1RM pads compare to the TRW Lucas pads in terms of friction

A1RM are a stack higher than TRW. Any normal street pad (TRW included) will be in the 0.35-0.43 ish range...

I see they are rated to 0 to 780 deg C which is probably the best temperature range pad I have seen to date but the friction is a little light on at only 0.4-0.48

Friction levels are pretty useless because there's no standard test for it. Manufacturers just release figures based on the equipment they use. For example Ferodo DS2500 are rated to 0.50 hot, but the majority of anecdotal feedback from that that have ran them back to back against the A1RM is that the A1RM bites harder when hot... Takes friction figures with a grain of salt.

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If you're changing standard Dot 4 before every track day, then that may be enough. Certainly going to a high temp fluid is an advantage, but where fluid looses it's edge, is moisture absorption. 6 month old GP600 may only be as good as brand new Dot 4. It doing that works for you, stick to it.

True nothing beats new brake fluid but as per above I am not using standard DOT 4 fluid, I am using CSR Dot 4 which is a DOT 5.1 that is compatable with DOT 3 and DOT 4 systems. I thought CSR DOT 4 was the only DOT 5.1 backwards compatable with DOT 3 until your post of the GP600. CSR DOT 4 is rated to 286 deg dry which is a significant upgrade over standard DOT4 and DOT3 but not quite as good as you say as the RBF 600/660 and GP600.

A1RM are a stack higher than TRW. Any normal street pad (TRW included) will be in the 0.35-0.43 ish range...

Interesting, I have found TRW pads to have very high friction, higher than every other street pad I have tried even pads claiming 0.5 and I have assumed even though I cant find a spec for them that they are at or above 0.5u friction.

I have not tried the A1RM but by the sounds of it they could be a very good option.

Friction levels are pretty useless because there's no standard test for it. Manufacturers just release figures based on the equipment they use. For example Ferodo DS2500 are rated to 0.50 hot, but the majority of anecdotal feedback from that that have ran them back to back against the A1RM is that the A1RM bites harder when hot... Takes friction figures with a grain of salt.

Pointed noted.

The reason I asked was I have tried DS2500's and I wasn't overally impressed with them and before I fork out for DS3000's I might look into other options. IE the DS2500's were good but not great and certainly not worth the expense at 5 times the cost of TRW Lucas pads which had similar braking force, better cold performance didn't eat rotors but just lacked the higher temp range that the DS2500's provided.

I was hoping when I put them in to gain an increase in braking force not only higher temp range given other peoples comments about there experiences but I didn't find this.

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