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> Replacing Steering Rack Boots, D.I.Y.
HCR32
post 21 May 2005, 04:26 PM
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Ok, so we all have skylines which are 10+ years old...one thing on the car is bound to let go or rip apart are the steering rack boots. Constantly stretching in and out when we turn while we drive...its bound to happen sooner or later...

I will show you how i replaced mine (left hand side boot was torn) so you can change yours in the near future.

Its important you change the boots if you find a rip or tear other wise all sorts of crap end up in ur steering arm and if it gets real bad, you will be up for a new steering rack which is $$$!!!

Sorry about the photos, there not clear as they were taking by my phone...

I bought the boots from repco which cost me $13.50 each. The part number is RRB033.



Next you need to raise the car on the jack and take off the front wheels and you should have something that looks like this. You can see in this pic, my boot torn in two peices.



Here is a closer look..not good at all..hehe



These are the parts which need to be undone in order for us to take off the old boot.
1. Nut which has to be screwed clockwise
2. Dont know what this is called, i'll call it the End Arm, will need to be screwed Anti-clockwise
3. Pin, has to be straightened and pulled out
4. End arm Nut, which has to be undone so the End Arm will pop out below.

First i took out the pin(3) and unscrewed the End Arm Nut(4) Followed by the Nut(1) When you are unscrewing the End Arm make sure you count or mark how far up the thread you are or else when you put everything back together your front alighment will be out of wack, of course after you do all this you will need a front wheel alignment. I counted how many rotations it took to take mine off, which was about 19 turns (this is on my car, every car will be different).



Once you have done all that you will have this below, you can slide the old boot right off. If your steering arm has specs of dirt, try and clean it with a clean rag then apply some grease. My steering arm wasnt dirty so i left it as is. The pic below you can see i slid on the new boot.



Once the boot is on, get 2 cable ties and tie down the ends of the boot.



Thats basically it. Screw the Nut(1) back on then the End Arm(2) making sure you only go as far up the thread as marked or for me 19 revolutions. Then pop the End arm back into place behind the disc, Screw on the End Arm Nut(4) then insert the pin(1)



Before you put the tyre back on, turn the steering wheel and make sure the boot comes in and out nicely.

Last but not least, front wheel alignment. Even tho you might have the tyres facing straight the alignment will be off. This costs about 20~40 bucks

Thanks

Barny


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post 21 May 2005, 04:26 PM
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Baz
post 21 May 2005, 05:28 PM
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Nice tutorial, I needed to replace the steering rack boots on my car when I was getting it complied. The only unfortunate thing is that I couldn't find a steering rack boot to match the one coming off, so I had to bite the bullet and buy a genuine steering boot. $62 the bloody thing cost me which I was not too impressed with, wish I had checked Repco beforehand.
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HCR32
post 21 May 2005, 05:56 PM
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thanks man,

yeh genuine parts from nissan are $$ i saved heaps of money by getting it from repco and doing it my self.


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Duncan
post 21 May 2005, 09:22 PM
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Great post, thanks....and added to list of tutorials.

One more thing though, often the ball joint is very hard to remove.

What you need in this case is a ball joint seperator, a big metal fork. You put the fork between the steering arm and the hub, and beat the fcuk out of it with a hammer until it pops out biggrin.gif

If you don't have a ball joint seperator....get one....

If you can't get one, put the nut back on at least half of its thread and hit the nut until it pops. This will damage but hopefully not totally root the ball joint. So do it properly.


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Nozila
post 23 May 2005, 11:09 AM
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duncan,
a question about the ball joint. You mentioned that you hammer it out until it pops. Do you do this from where the steering rod connects with the rod and in between you see like small holes where the pork would go? Reason i ask is becuase my rod with the ball joint connected is slightly bent and i cant get the damn thing off.
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Cubes
post 23 May 2005, 03:44 PM
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Excellent. biggrin.gif

I'll be off to grab a couple of boots. Thanks for the part number. biggrin.gif


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Oosh
post 23 May 2005, 05:44 PM
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Yeap, this'll be a weekend job for me, known i should do it for a while.


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predator
post 23 May 2005, 06:59 PM
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why do you need to remove the ball joint to change just the boots?? :confused:


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Duncan
post 23 May 2005, 07:18 PM
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Nozilla, the ball joint is the joint where the steering arm connects to the hub, its at the bottom of the second pic in the first post. The pork goes in between the hub and the steering arm


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Nozila
post 23 May 2005, 07:54 PM
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thanks duncan got it off.
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HCR32
post 23 May 2005, 09:16 PM
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Remember guys, if your boots are ripped, get them replaced asap, if sh|t gets in your steering rack it will get buckled and you will be up for a new rack.

didnt take me long to do both boots, bought the boots at 9am finished the job before 12pm with some bludging in between hehe


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groucho
post 17 Jul 2005, 08:33 PM
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HCR32 - top tutorial mate! I'll be doing both of mine shortly.
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hazerb30
post 18 Jul 2005, 02:43 AM
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This is excellent. My left boot is split and i have to get it fixed before getting it registered. Cheers !
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Grant
post 9 Aug 2005, 11:04 AM
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The repco part number(RRB033) mentioned in the original post is not a very good fit, be warned.
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Bl4cK32
post 10 Aug 2005, 04:31 PM
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QUOTE(Grant @ Aug 9 2005, 11:04 AM)
The repco part number(RRB033) mentioned in the original post is not a very good fit, be warned.
*

why not? what did you use, or recommend for a better fit?


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post 10 Aug 2005, 04:43 PM
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yeah, in the end I actually ended up swapping to the other ones.. as the suspension place i took my car to for some other work later said they were the wrong ones - but I think they were just trying to get more money out of me. All I noticed is that they just are a bit tighter seal down the rod end side.

When I thought about it