ok since ive had a few requests for detailed info and to stop others asking the same q's here is the run down on whats needed for the conversion to put the gtr rb26 and 5 speed into a rs four stagea.

heres the first part and ill add bits as i remember.

rb26 conversion parts needed...

rb26 engine -any model doesnt matter which, the later the better and low km's even better, the r34 has the ball bearing turbos standard, 32 and 33 are ceramic.

rb26 5 speed gearbox - i used a r32 gearbox as it suited my twin plate clutch setup from my previous setup (rb26/gts-t 5 speed/vl calais). there is 2 types, r32 has one type and the 33/34 are the other type, push and pull are the 2 types but im unsure which is which.

rb26 clutch/flywheel/pressure plate - i'd be using an aftermarket clutch for sure, even a single plate is fine, as the original one would be almost stuffed totally by now, and u dont wanna have to remove the gearbox a few weeks after the conversion as its a heavy heavy sucker. Jim Berry is a well known shop who makes strong single plate clutches, or i'd even go a twin plate if u plan any future mods above 350-400rwhp.

gtr pedal box/clutch master and slave cylinders/vacuum booster setup/vacuum canister/one way valve/clutch hydraulic line - depending on your choice of whether to use the vacuum assisted clutch master cylinder setup from the gtr's then your other option is the stagea rs four S setup without the vacuum booster. the gtr vacuum canister and one way valve is needed for the vacuum master setup only, and helps it have vacuum on boost and the one way valve stops the booster blowing to bits when it comes onto boost. this is mounted in the engine bay up in the drivers side corner closest to the windscreen area.

stagea front and rear tailshafts - both fit straight up without any problems

r32/r33 handbrake setup - with short cable section still on the end as it fits perfectly in length when connected onto the stagea rear cable sections. need some pics to explain it better. also mounting of the handbrake assembly is pretty simple, needs drivers seat out of the car to drill one of the two holes, as its down the side of the gearbox tunnel abit. i actually made another large bracket off the handbrake brackets to spread the load onto the floor panels abit more, using thick bar and making 3 mounting points and now its strong as hell compared to the initial little brackets on it. this means no welding is required to strengthen the floor area.

stagea 4wd sump/front diff - the stagea diff and sump arrangement is exactly the same as the gtr's. except the stagea diff has different ratio gears in it (mine were 4.3 compared to gtr's 4.11), i'd strongly reccomend a baffle setup of some sort on the sump and a capacity increase as well, as they are well known for the oil surging problem in 4wd applications because of the high g forces compared to 2wd cars which struggle for traction. i'd go the trust sump extension and extended oil pickup with baffles and trapdoors if any sort of spirited driving is planned, and track work it is a must if u want the bearings to last.

rb26 engine ecu - this is the part im not familiar with as mine was done with an aftermarket ecu setup from the beggining, but the gtr ecu and loom is required (if u dont plan on running aftermarket ecu setup) and requires the removal of the rb25 engine loom and untape it and remove all the NON-engine related wiring, such as passenger gaurd indicator, abs plugs, under dash big main plugs for heater/air con etc. then attach this to the gtr loom and run it through the firewall and connect up all the sensors onto the engine and also the other car accessories just mentioned. thats all i know with this setup so best to talk to someone who has done it themselves.

gtr radiator hoses - straight fit with no mods required

gtr intercooler - fits up perfectly between chassis rails, and not sure if gtr pipework will fit as the stageas chassis is wider than 32/33 gtr's im pretty sure. so therefore custom piping is needed and either aluminium or stainless steel is the options, mild steel is just plain rubbish and will rust away inside eventually causing big problems.

rb26 air flow meters/air filter ducting setup/air filters (pods or panel) - only require afm's on cars running stock ecu or power fc setups. and requires some pod filters or a custom air box setup unless u can make something from the tiny stagea airbox setup.

more to come when i can...

cheers

Brad