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> R33 Rear Seat - How to remove ??
B-Man
post 12 Sep 2002, 09:21 AM
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R33 GTS-T

I'm trying to remove my parcel shelf so I can take a look at the strut tower - And to see what's involved in removing standard speakers.

For this, it looks like you need to remove the rear seat - (seat & back) - Now, I know there are 2 x 10mm bolts that hold the seat down, but the damn thing still wont' come out - I'm sure there is a trick to this -

Can anyone help ??

Thanks,


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post 12 Sep 2002, 09:21 AM
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Zahos
post 12 Sep 2002, 09:54 AM
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i think you pust the seat towards the back of the car, before you lift.... HARD!
Seriously, just lift as hard as you can, you wont break anything....

Then the backing of the seat has 2 bolts at the botton, and after you get those off, list the seat, before pulling out towards you. Might be easier if you start on one side (when lifting and pulling out), then do the middle, then the other side rather than trying to pull the thing out in one go...
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post 12 Sep 2002, 09:58 AM
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after removing the 2 bolts you will need to pull as hard as you can from the front, its best if you have 2 people (1 on each side). they are always jammed in. just make sure you dont snap the seat in half.
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Guest_barneyrubble_*
post 12 Sep 2002, 11:17 AM
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thanks guys ive tried to pull it out myself with no luck, i got the parcel shelf out but it involved alot of bending.
In taking the shelf off you should also remove the two coves over the pillar as they overlap the shelf and hold it down. There are clips under the shelf and attatched to the shelf which also hold it down, you should push these up from underneath,
I will try to remove the seat because the job will be so much easier and in my opinion the right way to do it. when you've got the seat off you should look into any wiring you hope to carry out in the future cause it will make life alot easier and more likely more professional.
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B-Man
post 12 Sep 2002, 12:25 PM
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QUOTE
i think you push the seat towards the back of the car, before you lift.... HARD!


QUOTE
after removing the 2 bolts you will need to pull as hard as you can from the front,


Push or Pull :confused: :confused:


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Zahos
post 12 Sep 2002, 12:41 PM
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Here is a crappy pic that will help you understand
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B-Man
post 12 Sep 2002, 12:48 PM
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That's a great pic - I can understand it !! And if I can understand it, this means anyone can understand it.

Thanks Man, I'll try tonight !!


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No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,

Now:
VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8

S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2
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JimX
post 12 Sep 2002, 09:39 PM
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You don't have to push it in at all. Take a big lever (I use a bigass shifter spanner), and put it alongside the metal bit which hooks into the floorpan. Then push the lever down at the front, it will pop the metal hook bit straight up and out of the plastic that holds it in. It's just a really tight bitch, but if you lever it off in this manner it's really easy.

I figured this out myself out of pure frustration! I was trying the push in/pull up method which worked on my Commodore and I nearly broke my fingers. I was at the stage where I didn't care if I damaged the seat or not and tried it. I've done it 3 or 4 times now with no damage to the plastic bit which holds it in.

Even if you can do the push in/pull up method (I can't see how it would work) then using a lever is inifinitely easier and you're less likely to hurt yourself.
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Zahos
post 13 Sep 2002, 08:53 AM
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You could be right, I don't know...
I just remember when I tried pulling it didnt come out, so I pushed in and pulled up as hard as I could and it came off...
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JimX
post 13 Sep 2002, 10:39 AM
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Zahos, you've either got more muscles or less regard for skinning your knuckles than me smile.gif The thing that twigged me into trying the lever was the fact that when I pushed forwards it didn't seem to move inwards at all. The Commodore seat was a bit tricky but it did move in and up and when you had the seat out you could see the metal hook which you had to push back before lifting it out. With the Skyline it's just a U-shaped bit of thick wire, it doesn't actually look like pushing it back will accomplish anything.

Pushing before lifting might do something, I dunno. Perhaps you are meant to do it this way. All I know is that it's much easier to lever it off and it hasn't broken anything or even started to wear out the clip after 3 or 4 removals.
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Zahos
post 13 Sep 2002, 10:47 AM
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Yeah.. 6'4", 105kg, and most importantly NO PATIENCE is how I managed that. Your solution sounds more sensible, but that would have meant that I should have gottern out of the car, grabbed something to lever it with, got back in the car, and tried again. At the time that would have meant more effort, and patience... (I would rather skin my knuckles than do all that.... less effort!)

Anyhow brendanf, did u get it off???
I think maybe try JimX's solution first :confused:
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B-Man
post 13 Sep 2002, 10:51 AM
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Haven't had time yet - Will do it tomorrow and post results back -

Thanks guys, for all the feedback !

Cheers,

PS - All I know is that when I first attempted it was a right bugger - and I'm no weakling at 6" and 105kgs.


--------------------
No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,

Now:
VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8

S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2
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doxximus
post 13 Sep 2002, 05:27 PM
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you'll soon realise that the entire r33 skyline interior is held together by 2 bolts and a **** load of clips, we ripped out the whole backseat (hard thing to do when ur 6foot+) to take out the pasture shelf to cut bigger holes, and the door panels came out easy if ur thinking of changing those speakers
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skyzerr33
post 13 Sep 2002, 06:11 PM
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Duncan
post 13 Sep 2002, 07:29 PM
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Lift up front, not pull out.

Also, removing seats is a great mod - improves performance coz you can fit a full set of 4 slicks in the back for when you get to the track:lol:


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B-Man
post 16 Sep 2002, 10:32 AM
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K People,

Successfully managed to remove rear seat with the help of Big Berth the Blue handled Blade screwdriver. Just slip her between the seat and one good yank and the seat was out of the clips - no damage done.

Managed to rip out the rear suspension - Quite easy really - Cleaned it all and lubed up with some vaso - No more squeaks. Hippeeeee.

One question tho - re Rear Suspension - Is it normal to have metal on metal at the top of the strut tower - Where the shock and spring combo bolt onto the frame/chassis ????

Thanks everyone -


--------------------
No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,

Now:
VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8

S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2
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JimX
post 16 Sep 2002, 11:35 AM
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Yep at the top it's just metal, usually there's meant to be a small paper gasket type thing but it's so thin it won't do much anyway. If you're that concerned you can probably buy a pair from Nissan but I don't think it's worth the effort. Once everything's tightened up it's not going to move and you won't be scratching the paint or anything.

Also even though you've already done everything up, ta