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12 Sep 2002, 09:21 AM
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![]() 6.0L of Chev V8 Grunt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 6,740 Joined: 22nd June, 2002 From: The beaches Car(s): VE SS, S12 with FJ20ET Trader Rating : 6 |
R33 GTS-T
I'm trying to remove my parcel shelf so I can take a look at the strut tower - And to see what's involved in removing standard speakers. For this, it looks like you need to remove the rear seat - (seat & back) - Now, I know there are 2 x 10mm bolts that hold the seat down, but the damn thing still wont' come out - I'm sure there is a trick to this - Can anyone help ?? Thanks, -------------------- No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,
Now: VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8 S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2 |
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12 Sep 2002, 09:21 AM
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12 Sep 2002, 09:54 AM
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#2
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![]() Ohhh Nurse Arkady.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 1,058 Joined: 31st May, 2002 From: Melbourne Trader Rating : 6 |
i think you pust the seat towards the back of the car, before you lift.... HARD!
Seriously, just lift as hard as you can, you wont break anything.... Then the backing of the seat has 2 bolts at the botton, and after you get those off, list the seat, before pulling out towards you. Might be easier if you start on one side (when lifting and pulling out), then do the middle, then the other side rather than trying to pull the thing out in one go... |
12 Sep 2002, 09:58 AM
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#3
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Posts: 0 Joined: -- Trader Rating : Warn: (0%)
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after removing the 2 bolts you will need to pull as hard as you can from the front, its best if you have 2 people (1 on each side). they are always jammed in. just make sure you dont snap the seat in half.
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12 Sep 2002, 11:17 AM
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#4
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thanks guys ive tried to pull it out myself with no luck, i got the parcel shelf out but it involved alot of bending.
In taking the shelf off you should also remove the two coves over the pillar as they overlap the shelf and hold it down. There are clips under the shelf and attatched to the shelf which also hold it down, you should push these up from underneath, I will try to remove the seat because the job will be so much easier and in my opinion the right way to do it. when you've got the seat off you should look into any wiring you hope to carry out in the future cause it will make life alot easier and more likely more professional. |
12 Sep 2002, 12:25 PM
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#5
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![]() 6.0L of Chev V8 Grunt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 6,740 Joined: 22nd June, 2002 From: The beaches Car(s): VE SS, S12 with FJ20ET Trader Rating : 6 |
QUOTE i think you push the seat towards the back of the car, before you lift.... HARD! QUOTE after removing the 2 bolts you will need to pull as hard as you can from the front, Push or Pull :confused: :confused: -------------------- No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,
Now: VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8 S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2 |
12 Sep 2002, 12:41 PM
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#6
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![]() Ohhh Nurse Arkady.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 1,058 Joined: 31st May, 2002 From: Melbourne Trader Rating : 6 |
Here is a crappy pic that will help you understand
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12 Sep 2002, 12:48 PM
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#7
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![]() 6.0L of Chev V8 Grunt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 6,740 Joined: 22nd June, 2002 From: The beaches Car(s): VE SS, S12 with FJ20ET Trader Rating : 6 |
That's a great pic - I can understand it !! And if I can understand it, this means anyone can understand it.
Thanks Man, I'll try tonight !! -------------------- No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,
Now: VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8 S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2 |
12 Sep 2002, 09:39 PM
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#8
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![]() random engine ![]() Posts: 2,701 Joined: 2nd July, 2002 From: Sydney Car(s): 95 GTR33, 02 GSXR1000 Real Name: Jim Trader Rating : 11 |
You don't have to push it in at all. Take a big lever (I use a bigass shifter spanner), and put it alongside the metal bit which hooks into the floorpan. Then push the lever down at the front, it will pop the metal hook bit straight up and out of the plastic that holds it in. It's just a really tight bitch, but if you lever it off in this manner it's really easy.
I figured this out myself out of pure frustration! I was trying the push in/pull up method which worked on my Commodore and I nearly broke my fingers. I was at the stage where I didn't care if I damaged the seat or not and tried it. I've done it 3 or 4 times now with no damage to the plastic bit which holds it in. Even if you can do the push in/pull up method (I can't see how it would work) then using a lever is inifinitely easier and you're less likely to hurt yourself. |
13 Sep 2002, 08:53 AM
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#9
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![]() Ohhh Nurse Arkady.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 1,058 Joined: 31st May, 2002 From: Melbourne Trader Rating : 6 |
You could be right, I don't know...
I just remember when I tried pulling it didnt come out, so I pushed in and pulled up as hard as I could and it came off... |
13 Sep 2002, 10:39 AM
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![]() random engine ![]() Posts: 2,701 Joined: 2nd July, 2002 From: Sydney Car(s): 95 GTR33, 02 GSXR1000 Real Name: Jim Trader Rating : 11 |
Zahos, you've either got more muscles or less regard for skinning your knuckles than me
Pushing before lifting might do something, I dunno. Perhaps you are meant to do it this way. All I know is that it's much easier to lever it off and it hasn't broken anything or even started to wear out the clip after 3 or 4 removals. |
13 Sep 2002, 10:47 AM
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#11
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![]() Ohhh Nurse Arkady.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 1,058 Joined: 31st May, 2002 From: Melbourne Trader Rating : 6 |
Yeah.. 6'4", 105kg, and most importantly NO PATIENCE is how I managed that. Your solution sounds more sensible, but that would have meant that I should have gottern out of the car, grabbed something to lever it with, got back in the car, and tried again. At the time that would have meant more effort, and patience... (I would rather skin my knuckles than do all that.... less effort!)
Anyhow brendanf, did u get it off??? I think maybe try JimX's solution first :confused: |
13 Sep 2002, 10:51 AM
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#12
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![]() 6.0L of Chev V8 Grunt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 6,740 Joined: 22nd June, 2002 From: The beaches Car(s): VE SS, S12 with FJ20ET Trader Rating : 6 |
Haven't had time yet - Will do it tomorrow and post results back -
Thanks guys, for all the feedback ! Cheers, PS - All I know is that when I first attempted it was a right bugger - and I'm no weakling at 6" and 105kgs. -------------------- No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,
Now: VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8 S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2 |
13 Sep 2002, 05:27 PM
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![]() So Sayeth The Hypno-Toad ![]() Posts: 4,329 Joined: 19th April, 2002 From: Epping, Melbourne Car(s): 1994 R33 GTSt Real Name: Michael Trader Rating : 4 |
you'll soon realise that the entire r33 skyline interior is held together by 2 bolts and a **** load of clips, we ripped out the whole backseat (hard thing to do when ur 6foot+) to take out the pasture shelf to cut bigger holes, and the door panels came out easy if ur thinking of changing those speakers
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13 Sep 2002, 06:11 PM
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#14
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![]() Rank: RB26DE ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 13,082 Joined: 20th April, 2002 Trader Rating : 0 |
sledgehammer
-------------------- The new MASTRYODA is a 96 civic.
The old MASTRYODA info below PFC, FMIC, Blitz duel SBC spec S 12psi, Trust Adjustable Cam Gear (Ex) Apexi pod filter, 3" turbo back zorst, Bosch 040 fuel pump, DCB clutch, Ogura lightweight flywheel, 2200lb custom pressure plate, Kings sports springs and bilstein shockies power = 290rwhp @ 14psi Less than gtst v-spec sob :elaugh: Best 1/4 mile = 13.99s (10psi and 170 rwhp) Leader of the RED DEVILS |
13 Sep 2002, 07:29 PM
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that's racing! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 19,246 Joined: 10th May, 2002 From: Sydney Car(s): bnr32,z33,wgnc34,ungd21 Trader Rating : 19 |
Lift up front, not pull out.
Also, removing seats is a great mod - improves performance coz you can fit a full set of 4 slicks in the back for when you get to the track:lol: -------------------- |
16 Sep 2002, 10:32 AM
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#16
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![]() 6.0L of Chev V8 Grunt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posts: 6,740 Joined: 22nd June, 2002 From: The beaches Car(s): VE SS, S12 with FJ20ET Trader Rating : 6 |
K People,
Successfully managed to remove rear seat with the help of Big Berth the Blue handled Blade screwdriver. Just slip her between the seat and one good yank and the seat was out of the clips - no damage done. Managed to rip out the rear suspension - Quite easy really - Cleaned it all and lubed up with some vaso - No more squeaks. Hippeeeee. One question tho - re Rear Suspension - Is it normal to have metal on metal at the top of the strut tower - Where the shock and spring combo bolt onto the frame/chassis ???? Thanks everyone - -------------------- No more: Cosmo, R32 GTS-4. 500HP R33 Beast, RX7, Swift GTI, 200SX, VT SS, VN 5.0L, AE86 Rolla, Merc,
Now: VE SS Daily- 6.0L of V8 Grunt - Loving the sound and torque of the Chev V8 S12 Gazelle Project Track, Drift, Drag - FJ20ET, KKK K27 Top-mount Turbo, 60mm Ext W/G, R33 Brakes, R31 Rear Discs, Detroit Locker, S14 G/B, Haltech E6X, FMIC, S13 Coilovers, Oil Cooler & Filter Re-Location, Momo Wheels, D01J Semi Slicks, Custom Gauge Cluster, AEM Wideband O2 |
16 Sep 2002, 11:35 AM
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#17
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![]() random engine ![]() Posts: 2,701 Joined: 2nd July, 2002 From: Sydney Car(s): 95 GTR33, 02 GSXR1000 Real Name: Jim Trader Rating : 11 |
Yep at the top it's just metal, usually there's meant to be a small paper gasket type thing but it's so thin it won't do much anyway. If you're that concerned you can probably buy a pair from Nissan but I don't think it's worth the effort. Once everything's tightened up it's not going to move and you won't be scratching the paint or anything.
Also even though you've already done everything up, ta |