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> R32: Removing Hicas (gts-t), Including hydraulic line bypass
eXc
post 13 Jun 2006, 09:28 PM
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If anyone has things to add or things that I have not explained easily/incorrectly. Please let me know via PM.


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Removing HICAS On An R32 GTS-T, RB20DET
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The R32 has hydraulic instead of electric HICAS like the R33. I have not found any tutorial that I have been satisfied as being easy to understand. So I wrote this.

From reading other posts, it appears that some 32's must be different to mine. But anyways, this is how it worked on my car.

I don't know other cars, I only know my car. So it may differ. Don't bother asking about different cars.


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Tools Needed
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I forget everything. But;
- screwdrivers,
- BIG shifter or a...30mm? open ender.
- Various sockets.
- Tie rod end remover depending on how you plan to do it.
- Knife
- Jack and Car Stands - DO NOT JUST USE A JACK


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Parts Needed
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- Something to block up 3 lines. I used plastic wine corks (really...)
- Hose. I was lead to believe you could just use one hose. I couldn't. I needed to have 1x 3/8th" hose and 1x 1/2" hose. I then needed a reducer to join them. Use Power steering or transmission hose. I got about a foot of each and cut them down to suit. I actually needed about 1 foot in total
- Hose clamps for the above hoses. I needed 4. I didn't want to re-use the ones that were already on the car.
- HICAS Lock bar
- Power Steering Fluid - Dexron 3


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Removing The HICAS
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First up, if you are like me and have the HICAS bar with tie rods attached, you can skip steps 2-4. However you will need to get the tie rod ends off obviously.

1) Jack car up, put on stands. DO NOT USE JUST THE JACK. You will be needing to put a lot of effort to undo things. Use car stands.
2) Remove Wire on HICAS boots
3) You are using car stands aren't you? Good...Use the BIG shifter or the correct size spanner if you have it (Which I doubt unless you're a trucky) to crack the rod end. DONT screw them out all the way unless you have the outside end of the tie-rods off.
4) Undo the Fluid lines - Expect fluid to come out! (duh)
5) Plug fluid lines
6) Undo the 2 bolts that hold the HICAS in. 17mm I think from memory
7) Take the HICAS unit out.
8) Do everything in reverse.


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By-Passing The HICAS Solenoid
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When you put the HICAS lock bar in, you have a few choices. Some bypass the HICAS solenoid (and the whole system towards the rear of the car). Some loop it at the back using high pressure fittings. Some modify the power steering pump.

I chose to bypass the HICAS Solenoid as it seemed to be the easiest option.

1) Read the whole tutorial before you start.
2) Look at Diagram 1. You need to locate the Hoses marked in RED.
3) Look at Diagram 2. This is one of those hoses.
4) Remove this hose where I have circled. Attach the 3/8th hose here. Use a hose clamp.
5) Look at Diagram 3 & 4. This is the other hose (or atleast where it joins back to the metal pipes). Unscrew this fitting. Attach the 1/2 inch hose to the pipe (the 'male' thread) again, use a hose clamp.
6) Join the hoses with your reducer, using hose clamps.
7) Plug the female part of the lines underneath the car. (I used a plastic wine cork, grinded ribs of it, tapered it a little and it screwed in...
8) Top up the power steering fluid, run the car, check for leaks.

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Removing Everything
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Ok, I didn't do this as yet. But you should now be able to take all the lines, solenoid and whatever the extra bit at the middle/back of car is...I am guessing it's a secondary pump?

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Other Things
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1) Check for leaks after running the car a while.
2) Take a short (cautious!) drive
3) Get a wheel alignment.
4) Re-check power steering fluid

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Some other links
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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=58778

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93183

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post 13 Jun 2006, 09:28 PM
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