my last post was clear as mud, the point i wanted to make is that its like shifting a truck with the low rev limit.

i havent been that gentle with it my question is do i raise the boost/rev limit or wait till 1500km?

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im running stock valves, 14hrs of porting was done blending bowls, open exhaust ports, spot face for larger lobes, match port manifolds and full service head

if i missed anything im sure greg will correct me

ok paul, but be gentle





steve, flow figures should only be used as a guide, if u go chasing 'max flow' u'll prolly find the head will be worse than a stocker.

the results u get from a flow bench are only static volumes, i.e flow in cfm is only measured at set lift heights and they dont take into consideration the rapid change of lift variations from an engine running in the real world (valves open/closed thousands of times and varying amounts)

have a look at the thread i posted about a head i had done recently

Add me to the Paul and Rob list. I've posted it up eleventy billion times, run engine for 20 minutes, until it is nice and evenly warmed up to operating termperature and change the oil filter. Then drive to Bathurst, have breakfast with the guys to let the engine cool a bit and then drive back, that's around 450 k's. What I don't see on the list above is the next step which is "check the leak down". That will tell you if the rings are beded in, the bearings were run in by the time you got it out of the driveway. If the leak down test is OK, then drop the mineral oil, change the filter again, fill 'er up with synthetic and off for the final tune. This pussy footing around for thousands of k's achieves nothing.


Cheers
Gary

a. the 1st 300km i ran run-in oil
b. im now running a new filter with mineral oil
c. next change @ 1500km to full synthetic

im doing the bathurst run tomorrow with a mate who owns a worked Ford XBGT, nice car rumbles like thunder (harley equivalent on 4 wheels)

rob & paul...am i really that bad with my emails u've given me a complex, i feel like a STOONK C*NT

come for a drive today....Guilt-Toy is having a dyno day.

Marko if you are a good fella...we are just having a niggle...lol

is that newcastle? i can make it after lunch (going baby shopping 1st), send address details

regards,
good fella

I might as well throw this in here

Is there any difference between the standard r32 and r33 gtr water pumps apart from the price? If it makes any difference my 2630 is going into a r32 gtst

cheers marko

Marko, that was torqe plate honed. As I said, oil change @ 500, one after that and let rip.

I saw a car driving along the shoulder of one of the parkways here doing about 20km/h with RUNNING IN on a big cardboard sign in the back window. sometimes you've got to laugh.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

dont be a girl

^^ Yep..thats the correct way to break in an engine properly.
All my engines in the past were fired up on the engine dyno...oil temp reached,then start giving it a few pulls under load to 5000rpm..then pull the string and give it everything .
Engines leak down perfectly.
No way would i be pussy footing around for hundreds or thousands of kays.
Start giving it boost & rpm.
Motor initially run with penrite mineral oil ..half a dozen full power pulls made..then oil & filter dumped switched to royal purple 10-40,then back into it with full power runs.
Only way to do it .
And i have seen hundreds of engines dynoed & run this same way..all with the same results.

you know what i mean - hopefully the others got the jist

i remember coming across this article a while back when i had my bike - there are a few guys on gixxer.com which swear by this method - it is a good read

told you you'd like the clutch.....

good work Marko

dennis, its drives like a normal clutch, i gave it the wife test and she couldnt believe it as well, after having a triple then twin plate i will never go back. ive been questioning JB clutches and had the opportunity to get 1 two times in the past but i chickened out my mentality was "as if an aust single plate can hold like a jap multi plate"...i should have listened to paul from the onset

how light could it be? The NPC Twin plate we have in the race car is lighter then the single plate in my road car....it shits me, because it shouldnt be like that!

it feels like a standard gtr clutch just a bit springier (for lack of a better word) - you would never know its modified.
after looking at it, i think its the way he utilisies the thrust bearing on the clutch fingers as it sits closer to the tip of the fingers on diaphram then what it did on my previous twin plate.

its get more leverage like this & it feels nice with the 4000lbs pressure plate - maybe u should speak to jim berry direct about this, he'll chew both of your ears off

definitely do not wait 5000kms to give it the full tune and full boost. the engine will be half worn out by then let alone run in!! lol.

listen to greg. he built the thing. between 1000kms and 5000kms nothing is going to be achieved by running on a rich, conservatively timed, low boost, low rpm tune. except frustrations and boredom!

if you've done 1000kms then it's well and truly ready for the full ponies! get the wick turned up and enjoy.

thats my decision beer baron - its greg build hence what he says goes

Is that the solid or sprung centre NPC twin plate?

Looking Good Marko!

Where'd you get the silicon hose cooler kit and fuel rail from?

Thanks