I have read in other threads about the need to stall the auto to make a fast getaway.

While I think i have the basic idea...jam on the brakes, open fun flipper then release on green. It hardly chirps the wheels, even on smooth cement. At 2000 it starts to creep on the brakes

I did know a bloke who used to take his Mazda Mark 1 to 10k then pop it into D....alas poor torquey for I knew it well. But I aint about to do dat.

So what's the technique?

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Well, my technique

- Put on the hand brake really hard. As hard as you wanna launch
- Push brake with left foot, as hard as above
- Put into 1 with O/D off
- Hold left hand on handbrake release
- Accel till the car starts to creep a tiny bit, then hold around that area
- Release left foot/left hand/floor it all at once
- Shift ~6k into 2
- Shift ~6k into D
- At 200 put O/D on (never done that yet)

I can get some pretty hard launches this way.

There have been a few times when I have 1->N->D by accident, without really lifting off, resulting in a chirp. The stupid shifter doesnt need to press the button when going up gear, but then from D->N it goes without the button too, causing mis shifts (sounds funny to speak of in an auto)


Enjoy mate.

PS. Lauch on some grass/dirt, a lot more fun loosing traction ill tell ya

Similar to Alex, the standard torque converter allows around 2,250 rpm for launch. Higher rpm as the power goes up. This gives 10 psi with the standard turbo. If you flatten the accelerator and drop the hand brake and foot brake simaltaneously it shouldn't drop below 10 psi and will instantly hit 2,500 rpm which is heavily into the torque curve.

I find if I don't use the handbrake the rear wheels spin a little, sorta line locker style. But the ATTESSA then kicks in and it drives throuigh the front brake, so both foot and handbrake are the go.

With good suspension and some seriously sticky 245/45/17's and 150 4wkw I can't get any wheelspin, even in the wet. It will be interesting to see what 200 4wkw will do. Should get to the speed limit even faster.

Warning, don't hold it against the torque converter for the whole of the red light, they get very hot. And I already have a large transmission cooler.


cheers

OK so by the sounds of it the torque converter is getting punished. Can this reck the gearbox?.

The torque converter takes the load (torque) and transforms it into heat. If you boil the transmission fluid it will stuff the gearbox. There is very little shock loading transferred to the gearbox, like there is if you slam it into drive with the revs up.

cheers

Am I the only two wheel drive around here?

Thanks SK and ALex - that's the kind of technical guff I need to know so I can play/practice with it from there.

My BC is set to 10PSI and it seems to hold it like you said. ALthough the thread on the (AMS's ? ) blown turbo has got me worried as mine spikes to 11.5 when you stab it as opposed to feeding it on. Still, the stock, cheap and nasty hose clamps are still doing the job.

Gotta love that 2500 torque curve - very driveable around town.

How large is a large oil cooler. Mines still stock (10 rows?) and sits in front of the condensor and radiator. Do you think moving it to the right hand inner wheel guard (aka left hand side turbo set up) with a fan is a good idea?

Do any versions come with a power/economy button like most other auto's?

I also have no O/D facility. Only traction Control which is not ATESSA (no front axle) and wheel spin results in retarded performance until you back off to where the ECU is happy again. Fortunatley you can turn T/C off though.

Have read of this thread

Transmition Cooler

All the RS4 series 1's come with the power/economy button. Its a 4 spd auto that just locks out 4th when the over drive button on the gear stick is turned off. The 2WD Stagea could just use all 4 gears normaly and not have the option to lock out 4th. Unless you have a 5sp gear box.