I popped into Jaycar yesterday and purchased the kits for;

The Independant Electronic Boost Controller

[img][url="http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_7575.jpg%5b/img"]]http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploade..._7575.jpg[/img][/url]


Digital Fuel Adjuster




The Hand Controller for Digital Projects



And the RS232 cable to join the Hand Controller for mapping/programming



It has been about 3 years since I built my last electronics kit (a 400 watt sub woofer amp and processor for the home stereo). So I figured I would start with the easy one, the Hand Controller. Instructions where very explicit, quite easy to read and the pictures are very clear. Certainly a big improvement over the DJ stuff (sound and light) that I used to build to help pay the uni fees. Including reading the instructions and the basic electronic theory, it took me less than 2 hours to build the Hand Controller.

I will post up some pictures tonight.

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Watching keenly, been tempted to purchase these kits for awhile.


What solenoid would be suitable for the boost controller for cars that arent fitted with one? AKA cef.

Lokking good, I heard about these about ot be released a while ago, Ill be keen to see how they actually perform.

So is that where you got your nick name from ? From the old DJ years

But seriously, it'll be interesting to see how these go. JE has put together a heap of good kits for Jaycar, so they should work well.

J

Oh no, I was a roady. Not pretty enough to be a DJ. And yet not quite nerdy enough to hide in the back room soldering all day.:cooldance

Believe it or not, the solenoid Sillycoon Chump recommend is the Nissan, just like the one on the Stagea. The instructions even have a picture of it. So stick up a "wanted" on the forum, there are plenty of R33 GTST's with EBC's that aren't using their standard solenoids.


Shoot why did I say that, now the price will go up. Just like the R32 GTST wastegate actuators, they used to be cheap and plentiful until I opened my big mouth:kick:

Sneaky bugger SK, hiding this in Stagea.

Looking forward to the results, and I'll be keeping my solenoids but I'll need to look into the earthing wire mod for compatibility.

I was waiting when this post would surface Can't wait to see the results, then hopefully run down to Jaycar, money in hand!

I've just ordered a throttle position sensor kit as well from the wholesaler that jaycar buys from. As much as I think Julian's an eccentric english teacher, I really wanna try out his intelligent BOV design.

If anyone needs jaycar kits at wholesale prices then let me know. I don't mind helpin out an SAU hobbyist.

Hand controller and boost coontroller kits then mate

should I start a group buy (it gets even cheaper when ordered in qty's of 5) or are you happy with wholesale...

anyways, enuff hijacking of SK's thread.

A quick picture of the Jaycar Hand Controller on the ashtray lid, can still get to the power socket. Looks OK, easy to mount, bit of velcro on the ashtray lid, some on the back of the controller. It will then be low enough to allow the cup holder to function as normal.



But when I add the RS232 cable..........the plug is nearly as big as the controller itself.




There must be an RS232 flat cable, with a small plug, preferably black. So I can tuck it back behind the controller and in through the ashtray. I asked the Jaycar guys and they didn't have such a cable in their cattledog. Some of the computer experts out there may know of a cable that may be suitable.

SK - I think the best way to go WRT cable - is to get a DB25 to DB9 flat converter. Then you get a small DB9 to UTP converter - Run UTP from the HC to the fuel computer and use what ever cables you want at the FC end. It's still going to be a bit cumbersome.

Maybe replace the DB25 on the HC with a UTP connector ?

I've been eyeing those Jaycar kits for ages - Will keen to know the results.

Cheers,

I'll have to check the circuit diagram, but I was told by the Jaycar guys that the communication was 2 way and used a number of discreet connections. I took that to mean I couldn't combine any wiring and had to run 25 discreet links. JE used a flat cable I noticed in the test photos. Looked like the ribbon cable that I use to connect hard drives to mother boards in the PC.

I'll find the photo scan it and stick it up over the weekend.

Ahh - I see. I did assume that it was a standard RS-232 connection. If that were the case then you would only need 7 or 5 or 3 wires - depending on how it serial connection was designed.

But yeah - if they are non-standard, discrete connections you will have to refer to the circuit diagrams -

IDC connectors (hard drive cables) might be the go

SK why don't you just hardwire the plug in... ie cut the plug off and solder the cable to the terminals inside the box, and have a small hole with the wire coming out of it.

Like the PFC commander - remove it from the ECU when you don't need it - Good idea

Yeh thanks! That's a good idea, except I have already soldered the plug onto the board.


PS I am not really planning on permanently leaving it in the Stagea anyway. So I might not worry too much.

I'm really interested in how the thing actually performs in terms of spiking, holding boost. More importantly how difficult it is to set up for say an ordinary person.

Well, the theory is;

It can't not hold boost (as long as the turbo is up to it of course) because it can completely stop any boost (airflow) reaching the wastegate actuator. This is because the boost control solenoid (pnuematically) sits in between the plenum and the wastegate actuator. Unlike most boost controllers (EBC of not) that bleed off air and lower the pressure that way. Put another way, Sillycoon Chump's design is in series with the wastegate actuator whereas most other EBC's are in parrallel.

Spiking, is pretty much a factor of the electro mechanical response of the solenoid. Plus how fast the processor can interpret the results and send instructions to the solenoid. Once again Sillycoon Chump's design has an interesting advantage, it doesn't use boost to give feed back, it uses injector duration. This means the boost control processor is not waiting while airlfow is buffered though pipework to a MAP sensor. As soon as the injector cycle changes, it knows the airflow has changed. And that happens once for every two engine revolutions, that's 50 times per second at 6,000 rpm. That sort of response is physically impossible using airflow to drive a MAP sensor.

What is really interesting is the ability to have 2 completely different boost maps with up to 128 load points in each. That doesn't mean simply "high" and "low" boost settings. What it means is I can have the same max boost, but have one boost map (say for wet weather) that brings the boost on slower. I can have lower boost as well if I want, but I don't have to. Pretty cool huh?

I did a fair bit of research before I decided to give these a go, and they have some very interesting features. Looking forward to giving them a real world try out.

PS; The interpolation (smoothing) algorythm between the 128 load points looks to be quite effective as well.