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> Hicas Locking Option?
nanuGTR
post 24 Jan 2006, 02:15 AM
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Hey everyone!
OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?
Is it ok to do this or will i see problems?? I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.
thanks

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Googlebot
post 24 Jan 2006, 02:15 AM
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GTRgeoff
post 24 Jan 2006, 07:52 AM
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Best to use a pressure rated line. A decent hydraulic hose shop will set you up with the right type with fittings.


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nanuGTR
post 24 Jan 2006, 10:02 AM
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QUOTE(GTRgeoff @ 23 Jan 2006, 05:52 PM)
Best to use a pressure rated line. A decent hydraulic hose shop will set you up with the right type with fittings.
*

Ok so use pressure rated line, but is it ok to loop those 2 lines and everything will be alright???
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Sydneykid
post 24 Jan 2006, 02:29 PM
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What are going to use to lock the rack?

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I don't own or work for a workshop and I don't know everything.

Wanted standard front and rear strut tops for R32/33/34 Skylines and Stageas plus 200SX S15 & S14

Group Buys on for Road & Track Kits (Whiteline, Eibach & Bilstein) for R32GTST, R32GTR, R32GTS4, R33GTST, R33GTR, R33GTS4, R34GTT, R34GTR and Stagea, plus Road and Track Kits for 200SX, S15 & S14

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nanuGTR
post 24 Jan 2006, 02:53 PM
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I ordred hicas lock from japan already. At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not. If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.
Really need your help
thanks
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djr81
post 24 Jan 2006, 03:09 PM
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QUOTE(nanuGTR @ 24 Jan 2006, 02:53 PM)
I ordred hicas lock from japan already.  At the moment i cant take out the whole hicas system, i just wanna put on the Hicas lock bar and loop the lines if its alright, im not sure looping the lines is a good idea or not.  If there is something else easier can someone edit the pic and post another idea please.
Really need your help
thanks
*

Which lock kit did you get? If it was the Tomei one you disconnect the solenoid valve which (I surmise) stops fluid being pumped tot he rear steering rack in any case.
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nanuGTR
post 24 Jan 2006, 03:31 PM
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No nothing fancy its just a Hicas lock bar that looks like this.

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Sydneykid
post 24 Jan 2006, 04:28 PM
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QUOTE(nanuGTR @ 24 Jan 2006, 02:15 AM)
Hey everyone!
OK i want to remove my Hicas system on my BNR32 and all i want to know is is it ok to connect (rubber hose) the 2 power steering lines that come to the HICAS unit?
Is it ok to do this or will i see problems??  I will attact a picture so you guys know exactly what im talking about.
thanks


*



By looping the oil flow at the rear, you will require high pressure fittings as the solenoids ensure sufficient pressure to move ther rack is availabe at the rear.

A better (easier and cheaper) solution is to do the looping at the front. Straight out of the power steering pump (rear stage) into the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. I will mark up the schematic tonight, but I can't see the power stering cooler mentioned, maybe becaase it's just a loop of aluminium pipe they don't put it on the schematic.

smile.gif cheers smile.gif


--------------------
I don't own or work for a workshop and I don't know everything.

Wanted standard front and rear strut tops for R32/33/34 Skylines and Stageas plus 200SX S15 & S14

Group Buys on for Road & Track Kits (Whiteline, Eibach & Bilstein) for R32GTST, R32GTR, R32GTS4, R33GTST, R33GTR, R33GTS4, R34GTT, R34GTR and Stagea, plus Road and Track Kits for 200SX, S15 & S14

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nanuGTR
post 25 Jan 2006, 03:00 AM
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Sydneykid thanks for you help a diagram or something will help alot. Post it up whenever you have time because im probably going to work on this in the next month or so...
thanks!!
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Sydneykid
post 25 Jan 2006, 06:40 AM
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I have marked up the HICAS schematic;
The Blue dot is the power steering cooler
The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.



No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

smile.gif cheeers smile.gif


--------------------
I don't own or work for a workshop and I don't know everything.

Wanted standard front and rear strut tops for R32/33/34 Skylines and Stageas plus 200SX S15 & S14

Group Buys on for Road & Track Kits (Whiteline, Eibach & Bilstein) for R32GTST, R32GTR, R32GTS4, R33GTST, R33GTR, R33GTS4, R34GTT, R34GTR and Stagea, plus Road and Track Kits for 200SX, S15 & S14

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nanuGTR
post 25 Jan 2006, 06:44 AM
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Thanks bro!!!
I appreciate your help! smile.gif
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djr81
post 25 Jan 2006, 10:32 AM
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QUOTE(Sydneykid @ 25 Jan 2006, 06:40 AM)
I have marked up the HICAS schematic;
The Blue dot is the power steering cooler
The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.



No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

smile.gif cheeers smile.gif
*


Have a look at page CH-372 of the R32 GT-R manual. It shows the cooling loop forward of the solenoid valve. As a aside since having my HICAS locked out with the Tomei kit the power steering fluid doesn't get as hot as it once did. This may just be from not being pushed through small orifices in the valves and/or steering rack but is probably also due to the cooler.
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PHATR32
post 25 Jan 2006, 10:38 AM
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hey i got the exact same bar! it arrived just yesterday 2.5 weeks after ordering it through green line!

Its very very light, which is kinda worrying actually.

steve


QUOTE(nanuGTR @ 24 Jan 2006, 01:31 PM)
No nothing fancy its just a Hicas lock bar that looks like this.


*
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nanuGTR
post 26 Jan 2006, 01:32 AM
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I dont see the oil cooler but i understad everything else i have to do, sorry to bother you guys again.
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nanuGTR
post 26 Jan 2006, 01:54 AM
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QUOTE(Sydneykid @ 24 Jan 2006, 04:40 PM)
I have marked up the HICAS schematic;
The Blue dot is the power steering cooler
The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.



No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose.  If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out.  There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

smile.gif cheeers smile.gif
*


Another question where the blue dot is located, is it already going through the cooler or we have to make it go through the cooler?
*** Never mind i got it all figured out!! Thanks for you help guys!
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nanuGTR
post 17 Apr 2006, 12:01 PM
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Alright so i have finally removed my hicas about a month ago. I herd that you can unplug the HICAS ecu and the light on the cluster will stay off and the steering gets a little heavier, is that bad for the power steering pump? Is it better the leave the HICAS ecu plugg IN or OUT?