Okay guys as promised here are the before/after results of some cheap maintenance + the different between a cat-back and a full exhaust. The graph is shown at the bottom.

Spec's:

BEFORE - Green line on the graph

1995 GTS-T Series II

FMIC (Micks Metalcrafts)
2 Stage Boost Controller (7/12 psi)
HKS Pod filter
3" Nismo cat-back
Stock ECU
Stock Turbo
96 RON Fuel
Motul Turbo Oil done 8,000km (Ouch!)

Results:
7psi = 168 rwkw
12psi = 192 rwkw


AFTER (3mths later) - Red line on the graph

FMIC (Micks Metalcrafts)
2 Stage Boost Controller (7/12 psi)
HKS Pod filter
3" Nismo cat-back
Stock ECU
Stock Turbo
* 3" Custom 1 piece Front+Dump Pipe
* 3" Custom Hiflowed Cat
* 98 RON Fuel
* New Ryco Oil Filter
* New Ryco Fuel Filter
* Castrol Magnatec Oil done 2,000km

(Car has not been serviced by a mechanic for atleast 15,000km, Just been doing fluid changes and sheee purrrs)

Results:
7psi = 185 rwkw (Up 17rwkw)
12psi = 203 rwkw (Up 11rwkw)


Conclusion

Well as you can see some cheap maintenance and a proper full exhaust system can make quite abit of difference. The midrange power in my car is 500% better now that I have a proper full 3" exhaust. Some of the benefits I (as a driver) noticed after fitting the exhaust:

* Heaps better midrange power it almost feels like the Turbo is cutting in earlier
* Much more free flowing when you back off the gas it literally just rolls for ever, none of the sudden jerky-ness it just keels going
* No difference in the note/sound of the exhaust from the inside the car

I don't know how my car drove with just the stock standard Nissan exhaust as the previous owner had already fitted the 3" Nismo Cat-Back, but basically from a novice drivers point of view your exhaust is only as good as the weakest link and if you only have a standard front + dump pipe your absolutely kidding yourself. Go and spend the extra $750 like I did and you'll love it to bits.

I have no idea if the ECU has been re-mapped or has an addon-card. I've taken the kick panel off and everything appears to be stock, oem nissan stamp, no extra doobie-whackys etc. If you see me out and about ask me if you can see my ECU as no doubt you'll know what your looking for to work out if its stock or not coz I really have no idea.

I'm gonna keep throwing small amounts of money at this car (when I workout a new bank I can rob that isn't local) but keeping the Stock Turbo + ECU and really see what I can get out of it. Their have been HEAPS of people say that 200rwkw isn't possible from a stock ECU/Turbo well im going to get more out of this bitch you just watch me. (Hoping 210+)

I plan on changing the HKS Pod to an Apexi filter and also install the f/glass box I have and create an airduct from down on my front bar to feed the engine some much needed cold air. Maybe also 1 of those oil catch can thingy's and urmmm well I dunno i'll keep reading SAU to workout what else can be done.

If you have any suggestions throw em hear as i'd love to hear your comments.


Ben.
[MOVEIT]

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nice work dude
now that u mentioned it...i was wondering why my friends camry still glided off throttle and my 180 slowed down so fast....
time to change the rest of the exhaust system methinks
interesting how fuel leaned out after dump+front without touching the ecu....

Did you run it one the same dyno because your chart states it was run in shootout mode..

Congrats Ben

Watched your runs and reckon you should check your rears for flat spots as I saw rubber shooting off when the tyres came back onto the back rollers.

OK........ You asked me to post my result.

You must remember that I have a stock R33 with only a bleed type boost controller set, after my first run, at 10lbs (first run was pinging).

Ended up with 148.8, pretty happy with that (Wife is chuffed).

I think that you may have silenced some critics with your results, if your car has stock ECU etc.

Will watch your progress from here on.

What is the next step? ...... Anybody?

Yup same Dyno, same guys, exactly the same style runs. (www.unigroup.com.au - Excelent bunch of guys who really know their stuff)

First time was an SAU day with around 25 Skylines

Second time (Saturday) was with the Silvia guys and once again about 25+ cars.

Try installing a thermo Fan Ben,

Iv heard (so don't shoot me) but installing a thermo fan COULD increase power by 10%, we you will not have another belt running off the engine, thus less strain on engine more power @ wheels

Donnie

Yup thats what I was actually thinking after reading 2 or 3 threads on here and also reading over rev210's "12sec how to" thread.

If anybody can pass on some exact links, prices, before/after results etc etc it would be greatful.

Benm,

I put a thermo fan on mine about 2 weeks ago.

I picked up a second hand Davies Craig 16 inch fan for $150, and bought the thermo switch for $70.

Couldn't use the standard fan shroud cause it sits too high, and had to do a very slight mod to the fan to get it too fit.

It's a damn tight fit. The fan only JUST fit's height wise.

Over all the engine rev's easier. I wouldn't say it has more power, but it does rev easier. I 'think' this is sort of the same effect you'd get if you had a light weight flywheel, but not as dramatic (light weight fly wheel would be heaps more effect on the revs).

The temp does run a tad warmer now, but is very stable. Plus the car warms up HEAPS faster which is great for those cold mornings.

A big plus is that the engine is soooooo much quieter now.

The only down side I have noticed is when the fan is on it's damn loud. The 16 inch Davies Craig fan pumps out 2200 CFM of air which is heaps..

J

Man wats up with ur ECU

your car is a freak

Congrats!! : )

I wouldn't have thought that the removal of the standard fan and replacing with a thermo fan would have had much effect on the driveability of the car?

The fan is a viscous one so spins even if the engine is off. Those old fans on old cars that are driven by the crank would sap power but I thought viscous ones didn't :confused:

I'm probably wrong though

Benm, looking at your AF ratios, there is no way that is a stock ecu, either that or nissan really stuffed up 'cos OEM runs REALLY rich, even power fc when reset runs richer than that. when I had mine dynoed, it just ran straight off the bottom of the chart.
If you want 210rwkw, just up the boost to 1bar..lol

Jimih, anything that is driven by the engine will sap power to some degree or another.

hey ben how r you getting arount the fuel cut ?(boost cut) ?

or isnt it an issue yet ?

I think steve has pointed out the missing link, the AFR's...
It does seem quite rich for a 'stock ECU'...
Should open up the ECU ben...

thats what i was gonna say, with my s-afc i cant even get the a/f ratios to stay so even on 12.1 when on boost like your car benm.

With stock ecu u would be getting 10.0 a/f ratios on boost!

thanks for the stats benm,

i was definatly gona get the dump/front pipe put in on my car when it comes in, and now i know why i should.

thanks again


cheers :burnout:

good mod hey benm?