UPDATED 1 JUNE 2007. STAY TUNED FOR SOME MORE ADDITIONS!

Headunit Installation
Virtually identical for all but here's discussion for
R32
R33 - with links to pics
R34 - courtesy of r34gtt.net
Stagea

Wiring up your headunit
Nissan Wiring Harness information - verified as correct by me

Need a DIN pocket?
Just head to your local Nissan dealer. Any post-1996 Nissan car (eg N15 Pulsar) will have a DIN pocket that will fit in your Skyline.

Antennas
Jap - Aussie antenna conversion - you need an adaptor. The Aerpro AP348 is $15 from any stockist (Autobarn, etc)
Can't pick up radio on a Japanese headunit?
If your headunit reads on the Japanese FM frequency (~75-90kHz), you'll need a frequency/band expander to compensate. Pick one up from your local car audio store - the Aerpro AP745 costs $19.

That, or get a new headunit

Sound Deadening
It's one of the most effective ways to improve the sound in your Skyline! If you're outside your car, knock the body panels and listen for that hollow 'tin can' reverberation. I'd go so far to say that deadening at least part of your front doors is mandatory if you are concerned about decent sound.

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Speakers

The factory speaker sizes were as follows:
R32 - 4x6" front, 6.5" rear (Plate in front doors will see a 6" in there)
R33 - 6.5" front/rear - mounting depth is approximately 57mm (as measured by me!)
R34 - 6.5" front/rear - deep speakers are not a problem. There are no constraints with mounting like the 33.
6x9s will fit in the back fairly easily, need a spacer.
6x9s will fit in the fronts not so easily (again you'll need a spacer), but still doable.

Predator's spacer template for front R32 speakers
Changing rear speakers in your Cefiro
Changing rear speakers in your R32 (including parcel shelf removal)

Subwoofers

Wiring up your subwoofer
There are plenty of ways to wire up a subwoofer, depending on how many subs and amps you have, their configuration, etc. Crutchfield has put together a fantastic guide which shows you how to wire up as many as four subwoofers to your car. Check it out at the following link:
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/...ers_wiring.html

Troubleshooting

Help! I've installed my system and now I get a whining / hissing sound from my speakers!
Wayne Harris has written a fantastic article which covers most types of noise, and contains step by step information on how to isolate the problem in your car. It is a MUST READ if you are trying to troubleshoot. Read the article here: http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

Wiring Diagrams (care of Chris Rogers)

Tacho addition:

http://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfWiring/3.pdf

(this is the current RSM diagram - gives speed ,tach,ign wiring off ECU)

R32 - RB20
P23 diagram:N4a

R32 GTR - RB26
P23 diagram N4B

R33 - RB25
P23 Diagram N4C

R34 - P23 also


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R32 stereo wiring

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

when following this diagram the black wire on your radio goes to frame! nowhere else.

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R33 stereo wiring - SEE R32

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R34 Stereo Wiring

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

use the 2nd diagram. for R33 S2 - use 2nd diagram.

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V35/M35 base spec:

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

2nd diagram. DO NOT attempt this on a BOSE VERSION! it has an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT SETUP and you WILL kill something. cars later than 05 are CANBUS so be VERY careful here.

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34 GTR display info inc swapping to non GTR dash.

Here's a good guide for transplanting the MFD into an ER34.
http://flatout.main.jp/driving/parts/bnr34mfd

Here's an excellent guide for transplanting the MFD into an R33
http://www.geocities.jp/yossyi_bcnr33_carbon/inpure/MFD.html

An AV cord to output TV onto the MFD (Clarion part #:855-5430-00)
http://pub.ne.jp/BNR34/?entry_id=89518

MFD pinouts
http://f14.aaa.livedoor.jp/~lindwurm/bnr34/diy/mfd/mfd.htm

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PIVOT START BUTTON
http://www.pivotjp.com/download/download-e.html

R32 Owners:

If your planning on installing Amps and Subs, something you seriously need to think about is the grounding system in your car.

The standard grounding system in the R32 (I am using a GTR as my reference point) is adequite for a headunit, and for the standard Skyline electrical system, but if you add high powered audio amplifiers, D-class monoblocks, and other hardware, then the stock grounding from the battery will be insufficient to power your gear.

The biggest give-away that you have a grounding problem is that horrible engine noise that you sometimes get through your speakers, this is caused by the Alternator powering your device instead of the power feed coming from the battery.

Electrical Theory:

Basically, Electrical current (against popular thought) actually pushes the electrons FROM the positive terminal or power feed TO the negative terminal or Grounding point. If the grounding point is not up to the demand, then the Positive feed can not push out as much amperage.

If your system is a sh1t-hot system, but you have the stock 8-gauge grounding fromt he battery to chassis to engine block, and your running a 4-guage power feed from the positive terminal to your amp(s), then when the system gets cranking, the system will bottle-neck at the 8-guage battery - chassis ground, and start demanding power from somewhere else that can both feed and ground adequitely.

Guess what, the only other powersource in the car that can possibly meet the demands of your high-end audio gear is your alternator, so the system starts feeding from power from the Alternator as well as the battery, and thus, you have engine noise.

How to fix this problem:

Head to the local Jaycar/JB Hi Fi, Dick Smith Electronics, Etc, and get yourself a car battery terminal that will fit your battery. Next, get yourself either 4-gauge, or even some 0-gauge wire, probably about 2 meters will be sufficient, and your set to start work.

Basically, you need to remove the current grounding from the battery to chassis to engine block, and replace it exactly as it's installed currently, but with the thicker wire.

Remeber, current needs a clean path, so have some sand paper on hand, and where the cable gets grounded to the chassis, clean the metalic area completely until it's beautiful and shiny, then strip back the cable sheith and bolt down the cable (I like to use some clear-coat once this is done, to provide a barrier against oxygen getting into the freshly sanded metal and attracting a rust-spot).

The bitch is grounding to the engine block, but with some patience and time, you will be able to get under the throttle body and undo the current ground and replace.

This will resolve 90% of engine noise from from an R32 GTR's audio setup, if you still have engine noise, you haven't grounded the amplifiers correctly, but that's for another How-to or informational thread.

Thanks.

B.

I know this is a very old thread, but i now have a skyline:) Links to http://www.r34gtt.net/ don't work, any ideas where i could find r34gtt manuals?

Thanks

Search teh bit torrents, always a few manuals around, or try www.sewell.net.nz

MODS feel free to delete my post if you want to keep this thread clean

Thanks, I couldn't find anything. What i'm really after is tutorial on how to install an amp in the R34GTt

what about a sub in R34? there is very little space available. I wonder if I could put atleast an 8" sub woofer !!! would any of you suggest the best 8" sub?