just bought a r32 that has been imported with a rb25 out of an r34 in it.
It doesn't have a rev limiter cause it goes al the way to 8000rpm!!
Ive put a bee r rev limiter in it, but it cant b too healthy for it cause she goes bang bang too much.
I would like the stock limiter back on cause i use it for driftin.

Does any one know where the stock limiter is located and how to connect it back up?

Register on the forums for fewer ads.

I always thought the standard limiter was built into the ecu. Someone probably retuned the ecu to have a higher rev limit?

A BeeR limiter will be safer on your motor than the standard one. Standard limiter cuts your fuel, your car runs lean and can damage the motor whereas the BeeR cuts the ignition, safer. With the BeeR you can choose when you want the limit to be as well which is good. Just set it to where the standard limit should be.


Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd hate to be spreading wrong information I've read off others.

Stock limiter is safer for your turbos. Bee-R will kill them very quickly. The fuel goes in and the hot turbo ignites it, causing an explosion inside your turbine. Thats what the bang bang is. Hello new turbo. Also, if its safer to cut ignition, why doesnt any manufacturer do it?

Manufacturers don't expect retards to be banging the rev limiter though...

Yes they do, thats why its there. They think we're all retarded too, and most of us are, hence why hyundai and kia are still selling cars.....

well said, Bee R apparently can also kills engines by allowing heaps of fuel into the combustion chamber at high revs, instantly vaporising, the thermal shock aint much good for the motor...... apparently.........

Manufacturers don't have a rev limiter there so you can bounce off it everyday. It's there so in the 'rare' even you're stupid enough to go that high it does LESS damage than what an over-rev would do.Go sit on your rev limiter for a while and see what happens then. Do you know what happens when you hit the factory limiter? The cylinder pressures go AWOL and can easily cause some serious engine damage.

Engines are built to revved, sure. But rev an engine's tits off day in, day out and you'll soon be driving a less reliable car. Things will wear out much quicker and problems will start developing. I drive my car with respect, sure I pump it every now and then but never do I intentionally hit the limiter or thrash the shit out of it and that's why I haven't had a problem with it.

Hyundai and Kia sell cars because their market is people who want a cheap car. Buying a crap Korean car doesn't make you retarded wtf...

i think your missing reading his post.

they engineer cars and usually everything complex for that matter to be idiot proof or retarded as you may call it to some degree in the event that someone may be stupid enough to do what you just said.

At least you agree they're crap, separating you from the people that buy them....

Yeah, fair enough

I have a re-tune computer in my 32 and my rev limiter is at 8000rpm

I was thinking, instead of getting a Bee-R, for the $350 odd that it costs i might as well just get an after market ecu.

I also heard that they can kill the factory ceramic wheel turbo pretty quickly and that steel wheel turbos are better suited?

Realisictly your only guessing it doesnt have a rev limiter if you have only reved it to 8,000.
I have seen 32's rev limiters from factory set at 8,200. With an Rb25 in it it could still be after 8000.
I'm not suggesting to go see if it is after 8,000 just pointing out that it might be higher.

To solve your problem of wanting a lower rev limiter without a Bee-r =

aftermarket ecu and set it yourself
or
retune stock ecu by someone like Dr Drift and get him to set it where you want.

Bee*R = dead turbo. I wouldnt even use it on a steel jobby

Also, something to take into account. I've noticed that the factory tachometer needle can 'float'.

After installing my S-AFC (with digital rpm readout and peak hold) i noticed that the tacho needle would read higher than the car was actually revving. Say the tacho was reading 7500rpm the S-AFC would record a peak of say 6800rpm. So you may not be revving the car out as much as you think.

for a start why are you sitting on the rev limiter? Any fool who spins wheels knows to keep the revs as low as possible... harder to do, sure, but reving the living end of the motor, recipe for longevity right there. In what instance do you need to be hitting the rev limiter? If your peak power were the last 1k-2k rpm in a race car sure... in which case your engine is built for what you expect to be a set life on that spinner anyway. On a car that spends time on the roads... swapping cogs should happen before that... 25 with stock crank and cams over 6k is just wet noise. Awsome noise the last 3rd rev range I grant you but.. not something to write home about.. 6-6.5k is a cog swap.. your 7k...(7.1krpm for s1 wanktards) is your hard limit. who waits on the rev limiter to change?