Hey,

So far:

Koya Drift Tek rims, 17x8 front, 17x9 rear, Toyo R888 semi slicks all round.
G4 street spec coilovers all round.
Engine bay brace and under carriage bracing.
Hicas lockbar.
Lightened (as much as legally possible for street use).

What else do you recommend to improve handling? Keeping in mind i have a very very low budget and it is a daily driven street car.
Sway bars? Anti roll bars?

Thanks!

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negative camber.
i noticed the traction difference at the front as soon as i added 2.0 degrees (which is bugger all).
i think it's a quite worthy mod.

Strut bars - improve body rigidity
Sway bars - lessen body roll..

These are cheap and the only negative side is they may add 2 or 3kg's of weight in total..

adjustable castor arms too

I would reccomend getting rid of the g4 coilovers if you can sell them without tearing up to much coin and get some better quality coilovers tien(oz spec) bilstien etc as the G4's are a cheap chinese coilover and you will be surprised at the difference in the handling with a better quality shock and definatly go for sway bars as these will make a world of difference for the price.

^^^ +1 Tein Super Street Damper Coilovers for maximum rubber on tarmac nearly at all times.

Camber kit set to -ve & Castor kit, Strut brace, Sway Bars all improve turn in and cornering eh?

sway bars first.


Then Id do camber and go for a good alignment.

Sway bars are anti-roll bars. I'd recommend getting them as your next step. Cheap, easy to install.

Conceivably you could also replace the bushings, but if you get polyurethane ones the ride may not be suitable for your daily driving (it depends on your definition of "harsh").

Other alignment products are also good, but as a car you track you may also want to look at the brakes. I'd probably want to look at increasing the heat capacity of the brakes, if not generating more deccelerative force, as you can drive faster for longer.

one of the most basic mods of all but probably the hardest one to get done correctly would be a good track wheel alignment, which needs to be very different from a street alignment,
reasonably cheap mod too,

if this is wrong it can effect your lap times by many seconds

Wheres a good place to do such an alignment and how you going to know if its done properly or not ?

Take it to a suspension place that does work on track cars, so not Beaurepaires or Bob Jane.

Suspension setup is not a simple "set this at X, this at Y, this at Z" kind of thing. It depends on the car itself as well as the driving style of the person controlling it, especially if they're a track n00b and don't have any setup knowledge.

You need someone with experience to get a rough setup to start off with based on what other similar cars have. They then need to be able to translate what the driver's saying is going wrong, as well as the wear patterns on the tyre, so they can fine tune it.

If you get an alignment that's bang-on perfect the first time, you're either lucky or that technician is some kind of savant (and I want his number if he's in Sydney).

You could install a Floor Brace (Middle of the car) and a Rear Strut Brace in the boot...

Save weight by getting a Carbon fibre boot lid (not sure if its legal but you can paint it the same colour as the car so ppl can't tell)

re-adjust your camber...

How wide are your tyres? Maybe go a little wider...

Brake upgrade...

Swaybars are on their way, i knew they were same thing as anti roll bars but just wanted to make 100% sure .
Brakes are stock except for Ferodo pads, braided lines and vented front bar to cool brakes.

Alignment will be ok for now as i dont want the tyres to wear too fast or uneven, as i said its a daily driven street car. Wont get the bushings done as i dont want to bounce around TOO much on the streets of sydney. Carbon fibre parts are too expensive for me at this time so i have to pass on that. At the track i basically rip out all the seats, rear parcel shelf, door trims, glove box/ under arm box etc.... all the easy stuff.

Im not 100% about 33's but I know 32 GTR bonnets are aluminium and are only 1 or 2kg heavier than Carbon fibre items at half the cost.

Also.. Braided brake lines.. shortening braking distances can also help quicken lap times + good fluid and pads..

Brake master cylinder stopper.. I have heard good things about these but I personally am dubious.

if you set your toe right you can get your 2 degrees or more of negative camber without chewing through tires as quick as you think, toe kills tires, camber just makes them wear uneven, they'll last a long time and you can rotate them to get maximum use