Hey all as you might know ive had alot of problems with drive line since i got my car lol..

First of all the car is a R33 Skyline 184RWKW, Clutch is a Heavy duty 6 puck Ceramic Clutch (about 2 months old).

First started after about a month of the clutch being in, when i was getting real notchy and little grinds going in to 3rd gear.. and then it started doing it going in to second from first..
I got suggested to put Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil in.. I did so.. and its still did it.. So i got it looked at by boostworx and they said its fine and thats how a RB25 Box should be.
Anyhow.. Just recently its been slipping under load.. If i load it and drop the clutch in second it will slip like mad and then drop all pressure in the clutch and then slowly come back over a minute or so. But the thing thats really confusing is.. Sometimes it wont.. Say I do it 5 times, Twice it will slip. I took it to the mechanic's today and he adjusted the peddle and it still seems to be doing it. I rang him back and he suggested it could be the master cylinder. What are other peoples advice on this, Because to get the master and the slave re-gloved or w/e they call it will cost about $500EST. So if i can get some opinions on this it would be great.

Thanks all =)

Register on the forums for fewer ads.

I'm in the same boat. Only difference is my clutch is wasted and old.

Getting a new clutch and doing a fluid bleed and tranny oil change.

I'm also preparing for new master and slave cylinders if my mechanic recommends it. About $400 i think, fitted will be a little more. They just get tired. See what your mech says, maybe you can avoid the expense (personally i wouldn't fight it. Just hand over your wallet ).

those prices sound out of control , but it is what it is lol

Yeah, id rather get someone that knows 100% ( I hope ) of what there doing then me try change it myself lol. But if its not this im going to be really annoyed. Does anyone know where i can get new clutch master cylinders from?

why are u running a ceramic with 180kw? you can run organics up to 250kw no problems.
Massive overkill mate, and the fact you are having issues is proof that you are running the wrong clutch for the application.

Because, The last clutch i had was organic and it melted. I got suggested from alot of people to go with a ceramic clutch because i plain on having more then 180kw.....

Anyone else got any ideas on what the problem could be?

Please elaborate on this. I'm deciding which clutch i need (190kw) with no forseeable plans to increase power. Will organic do the job? I saw the ones in the SAU trader section, don't really wanna go overkill with it.

Wanna hear some opinions. Cheers

Well, I only went with a ceramic 6 puk, because i was sick of having mine slip. But i never got told that mine was going to be over kill. And i really doubt that i would be "Overkill" because how can you have a clutch that's too good so it slips?

If you melted your last clutch, then I would say driver education is the problem and that you excessively 'ride' the clutch.

Due to the nature of this type of clutch (6 puk) it takes longer for it to stop spinning. Therefore when you are changing gears (with a 6 puk) you need to leave your foot depressed on the clutch longer while your selecting gear compared to a single plate clutch. Also due to this type of clutch it is very important that the 1000km 'bedding in' process is strictly adhered to.

Or, there could have been a problem with the installation. The wrong grade of grease could have been used and it may be getting on to the clutch plate facings, or the gearbox may have been allowed to 'hang' during installation. It could really be a number of things, but that fact that you melted your last clutch makes me think it’s the former.

Well that is all well and good for you to think that But i don't ride the clutch. When i change gears with the 6 puk clutch i don't just dump the clutch every gear change but i certainly don't ride it.
The reason my other clutch went is because it would get hot during a hills run. So when i borght the car, it was obliviously on its way out.
But thanks for your imput bud.

a little off topic, but could it be worth while doing a clutch bleed and throwing in some new fluid? im changing my clutch next week, as im having slip problems as well. i thought maybe a good way to preserve my new hd clutch would be to change fluid every 'x' amount of k's.

im not sure why you come on here and ask for peoples opinion, some of which are proffessional, and them grill them if they say something you dont like the sound of. Your clamping pressure is the problem, not your clutch plate material. Jim berry can build you a organic clutch with 3000 pound clamp. i will supply and fit this clutch for you and guarantee it doesnt slip. if it does i wont charge you for it. ceramic clutches are designed for motorsport applications, not street use, and its also possible that you are getting oil contamination.

FloydWestWood : I originally was going to do that, But i got told there's no point in it because my peddle high isn't moving so there shouldn't be air in the lines.

BezerkR32 : I wasn't "grilling " anyone's opinion mate, I was just simply saying what the facts were, I came here to get other peoples opinions and if there going to say its driver error im not going to just sit there and take it. I'm looking for mechanically failure not driver failure And also thanks for your help. I should be finding out tomorrow if its the master or not. So if it isn't i shall consider other options.

Just a few questions to possibly help narrow down the cause. I realise you may not be able to answer some of them if you had a workshop do the work for you, which leads me to my first question.

Did you install the clutch yourself or did you get a workshop to do it for you?

When the clutch was replaced did you just replace the clutch plate or was it a whole kit with pressure plate and new thrust bearing?

Did you have the flywheel machined?

What was the condition of the rear main seal, slave and master cylinder?

(To give you an idea i replaced my rear main seal, slave cylinder and overhauled my master cylinder with all genuine Nissan items when i replaced my clutch.)

Was the correct grade of grease used on all appropiate greasing points?

Was the clutch fluid bled whn it was replaced?

Some of these might seem a bit obvious but nonetheless they may help eliminate possible causes. Also there is a difference between not having air in the system and have a leaking primary or secondary master cylinder cup seal. The pedal height will remain the same but overall the release mechanism will be effected. This could cause the 'fingers' on the pressure plate to lightly press on the clutch plate facings causing it to slip.

Let us know how you go tomorrow.

Did you install the clutch yourself or did you get a workshop to do it for you? I Friend of mine did it, he had done one before also. His on SAU as Matty T i think.

When the clutch was replaced did you just replace the clutch plate or was it a whole kit with pressure plate and new thrust bearing? It was a whole kit.

Did you have the flywheel machined? Yes

What was the condition of the rear main seal, slave and master cylinder? Well i got the results back today, they told me it didn't come up to bad nothing was really to wrong with it, But they did find a hose that may have been blocking the fluid from coming though. So there replacing that also.

(To give you an idea i replaced my rear main seal, slave cylinder and overhauled my master cylinder with all genuine Nissan items when i replaced my clutch.)

Was the correct grade of grease used on all appropriate greasing points? I'm guessing so, As i said i didn't do it.

Was the clutch fluid bled when it was replaced? I'm guessing so, As i said i didn't do it.

I was talking to the mechanic today, He said if we have replaced all this and checked over everything in the hydro system, At least that's checked off the list.. Lol..