So i started to check the RB30 i have bought to see how it was looking inside and the type of treatment she had been given.

Firstly i drained the oil obviously-now altho it was quite a dirty black in comparison to the black i usually drain out of my RB20, but overall the oil was not sludgy nor were there a single trace of metal filings that i could find using a filter (not the finest one i mite add).

Next i removed the sump, checked her out and she looked all sweet with still no metal traces anywhere in tthere nor on the oil pickup filter which protrudes into teh sump.

At this stage this exposed the heart of the 30 The rods, crank, and bores (not that the bores werent visable before haha). The rods look fine, the crank looked perfect except for one area under piston #2 (i think) which had a bit of discoloring to it...not sure what this was but from the pictures you can sort of see the discoloration. Just wondering whether this is all normal or i should be concerned.

Aswell as this, i did notice some hatching/cross hatching of the bores as you can see in the picture attached, just wondering whether the more technical people have some input into any probs i could be facing or the things i can do to fix the problems. Chances are im taking it to a engine bulider to replace all bearings, rings, crank drive collar, welsh plugs and rod bolts, then balancing the round and round/up and down bits.

Just wanting some input of peoples experiences on the buildup

Cheers, David

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Looks mint.

grab the end of the crank and try and push it back and forward in the block. If it slops back and forward, you might have worn thrust bearing, also put the flywheel or flex plate back on with 2 or 3 bolts lightly tightened and try and turn the crank back and forward. if any of the big ends are worn/damaged, the rods will slop on the crank.

It sounds like your taking it to a shop to get it done anyway, i would just drop it off and let them go for it. they can measure the crank and if its worn, grind it down and run oversize bearings

havent got the fly unfortunately, bought the engine from a country kid for bugger all-apparently was in the car for 200k KM and blew no smoke just needed an oil change. But ill give it a try with something similar.

Chances are ill take it to the shop to get all the work done, im confident with the basic mechanics of putting the parts in the motor-its the tolerances im worried about, and some of the tricks of the trade. And as you said, ill get them to order all the necessary parts to get her going.

Couldnt upload the bore picks tho, which is what im more concerned about-im in the process of legally downloading Photoshop to make the pictures smaller-damn SLR cameras! Ill try uploading them tonite.

use photobucket to host your pics, it automatically reduces the size for you.

and that looks like the rear half of the crank in those pics, so that would be piston/cyl 5 - but looks alright to me

Heres a couple of the pics of the bores, the "lip" looking mark at the top as if where the rings travel are smooth as a baby's bum to touch.

if thats the worst cylinders then you will be fine, a quick hone and some new rings and ya away

Nice. Always reassuring that the things in good nick.

Was thinking to do ACL Race Series Rings, Big end bearings, Main Bearings, RB25 Series 2 oil pump (or N1 if money will allow), JUN crank collar, New welsch plugs, Bottom end gasket kit/main seals, not sure on head gasket, ARP rod bolts if money allows. Will just replace the water pump with a new RB30 one most likely-unless there are any better options.

Then linish the crank/fit crank collar, balance the up and down/round and round bits, acid wash, honeing, and then deck the block/shave the head to get my compression up a bit from around 8.3 to around 8.5-8.6 mayb im hoping for.

Been slack lately, as money has been scarce, but getting back into it. Cant wait to get her up and running and in the car.

Mite be a bit like a diesel whilst i still have the RB20 turbo still on it!

Will be even more like a diesel than mine is with the 25 turbo! The 25 turbo chokes my engine up around 5800rpm.. I probably wouldn't even bother putting a 20 turbo on there at all.. spend $300 and get a 25 turbo at the very least until you can get something decent

I would just chuck it in if money is scarce. Stock bottom ends are good for 300rwkw if tuned properly

ey r32 abuser

Nice. Always reassuring that the things in good nick.

Was thinking to do ACL Race Series Rings, Big end bearings, Main Bearings, RB25 Series 2 oil pump (or N1 if money will allow), JUN crank collar, New welsch plugs, Bottom end gasket kit/main seals, not sure on head gasket, ARP rod bolts if money allows. Will just replace the water pump with a new RB30 one most likely-unless there are any better options.

Then linish the crank/fit crank collar, balance the up and down/round and round bits, acid wash, honeing, and then deck the block/shave the head to get my compression up a bit from around 8.3 to around 8.5-8.6 mayb im hoping for.

Been slack lately, as money has been scarce, but getting back into it. Cant wait to get her up and running and in the car.

Mite be a bit like a diesel whilst i still have the RB20 turbo still on it!





how much did you pay for all that work and parts mate??
thats basicaly exact same path im looking to take with my motor..

cheers yo

havnt got it done yet-money is tite and im waiting for tax money back! This is what its like being a uni student.

Im not rushing things at all, as theres no need to.

i priced all the parts up at approximately $500 and then $1-1.5k to get all the work done to the motor by a builder here in Adelaide.

so for approx $2k you get a fresh bottom end.

Hope this answers your questions

ive been told by a few people that acl bearings are rubbish. i run genuine nissan ones in my engine.

okay and thats with stock pistons and rings??
what engine builder is it at roughly were is he located as im from just out of adelaide??

cheeers mate
tom

and how much was it for the genuine nissan bearings???
and how much just for the acl bearing kit?

I've ran King Bi-metals. A little more expensive but good for 90,000km's so far.

A nice little post from proengines.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1628849

I run NDC bearings, seem fine so far (and I deal a fair bit of abuse) and they were a very reasonable price. Covvos had to special order them though.